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Posts: 3
Reply with quote  #1 
I bought a 2010 Etec last fall for a Mako restoration project. Had my mechanic run a compression check before I bought it, in which all 6 cylinders read about 110psi. I bought the engine which has 1400 hours on it and winterized it for the next season. I finished the boat project this month (including a new gas tank and lines) and had my mechanic come rig the engine and get it running. The engine started up no problem.

The first two times I took it out it was a little rough so wasn't able to get to WOT to verify that the proper RPM range was being met. Last Tuesday, I took the boat out and it was finally calm enough to open it up. I recall being over 5000 RMPs but don't know the exact engine speed as I was way too excited. I putted around for about an hour and caught some bait fish then headed over to the shore to troll for stripers. When I got there, the engine stalled and would not immediately restart. I shut the batteries off then on, re-tried, and engine started right up. But I thought I heard a tick when it started. Then seemed OK.

After an hour or so off trolling, no bites, got dark, headed to dock. Dropped the trailer in and putted the boat over to the trailer. Between the dock and the trailer (100 ft or so) the engine stalled twice but I was finally able to get it on and out. Thursday, I had the mechanic come take a look. We verified that the spark plugs were gapped and indexed properly and that the fuel was getting to the engine. All checked out. We tried to turn it over several times then heard a clank. We popped the flywheel cover off and found a missing tooth and a broken one right next to it barely hanging on. I suspected the missing tooth was the "tick" from on the water and the broken one had just occured, the "clank". Both were clearly new damages (no rust at the fractured surface).

So we did a compression test; first up, top cylinder port side, zero. All others were about 110. Triple check the first one, 0, 0. Over the weekend, I pulled the port cylinder head off to diagnose the problem. Head gasket was fully intact, all pistons move their full cycle when I manually spin the flywheel, there is no major damage to the piston or cylinder wall, and I did not find any fragments of piston rings. The only difference between the top cylinder and the other two was that the honing pattern was missing in the top. The cylinder may have been slightly scored but scoring was barely detectable.

So, why zero compression? Are the rings broken and inside the crankshaft chamber, I just can't see them? Is there an issue with the injector? Would an injector that's not filling the chamber result in zero compression? Does the flywheel damage have anything to do with this? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.



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Posts: 7,462
Reply with quote  #2 
Time to tear it apart and see what's going on. Lean condition can score a cylinder. Flywheel damage could be caused by a starter trying to spin a seized engine.
"Never believe what you read on the internet"-Abraham Lincoln

Posts: 3
Reply with quote  #3 
Thanks. I'm going to take it to the dealer and see if they can isolate the source of the problem. If I am looking at a rebuild, what should I realistically expect to pay? What is typically performed/replaced during a rebuild?

For the flywheel, I see that the assemblies go for over $800 new. Is it possible to purchase only the part containing the teeth? I do not think a seizer caused the broken teeth since I can manually spin the wheel. 


Posts: 3
Reply with quote  #4 
Update: The top cylinder on the port side was in fact scored, not by much but it doesn't take much to get a zero reading. No way of telling why this happened without taking the engine apart. I took it to a mechanic who specialized in rebuilds. He said he can rebuild any engine mechanically but the electronics in the newer ones do not allow him access to calibrate the injectors and other components since he is not a dealer. He said he would do the mechanics for $5,500 but then it would have to go to a dealer to calibrate. I spoke to one dealer who said he wouldn't touch it. The dealer said that if something wasn't working everyone would be pointing fingers. I cut my losses and I sold the engine for parts for $1,500 and bought a new 2018 Etec 225 for just under $15,000. 

Posts: 48
Reply with quote  #5 
Congratulations on the new engine!
1996 Pro-Line 231 WA
2006 E250DCXSDR
S/N 05118363
Home Port - Savannah, Ga.
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