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ENichols56

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Reply with quote  #1 
First off, thanks to all who have contributed to this site. I have been reading it over the years, but have recently added a second etec to my armada thus have a renewed interest in rigging tips. I've had a 2005 90 I3 on a classic 17 boston whaler for 10 years and just purchased a low hours 2006 250 for my 22 grady white seafarer.  I was working on my throttle setup for my 250 which caused me to pull the hood off of my 90 to compare. On my 90 I noticed the same thing many of you have. My throttle plate does not open all the way and I am only seeing 3.57 V at WOT. Part of this is because the rubber cover on the cam roller has deteriorated due to oil/grease exposure, so I have a new roller on order.  Saw the same roller rubber cover issue on the 250, btw.  That small amount of material will make a minor difference, but won't get me up to the 3.9-4.5 V reading that is quoted as being the proper WOT TPS voltage range. So, I just popped the threaded plastic TPS linkage connector off of the nub so I could adjust it as is described in this thread:

https://www.etecownersgroup.com/post/tps-voltage-and-throttle-link-adjustment-8215529?pid=1293209116

Interestingly I was turning it and was not getting any movement.  I pulled it off to find that the TPS linkage rod is not actually threaded.  The plastic fitting just has a tight interference fit with the rod as opposed to a threaded junction.

Resized_20190807_203830_657664689834248.jpg 

It is hard for me to believe BRP did not specify the end of that rod to be threaded if this was intended to be an adjustable connection.  Makes me wonder if this should be the primary solution for getting higher TPS voltage at WOT and more open throttle plates:

"Check WOT TPS voltage - if less than 3.9 volts - remove small amounts of material from the wide open throttle stop on the back side of the throttle cam.  The removal of approx 1/16" of material from the wide open throttle stop will adjust the voltage apx 1/10th volt.  A target voltage in the 3.9 thru 4.5 range is all that is needed to get a throttle percentage voltage gain sufficient to get WOT spark and fuel and WOT rpm."

Any thoughts on this? Has anyone who tried adjusting this linkage revisited this linkage position after several running hours to see if stayed put through throttle up and down cycles, vibrations, etc.?

olypopper

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Reply with quote  #2 
Bend the rod slightly to make it longer.  I know its not a proper adjustment but it does work for getting into the TPS WOT spec.  
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steelhead

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Reply with quote  #3 

The throttle plate does not open to exact parallel with the bore of the throttle body on many of these E-TECs.  Designed that way by E-TEC engineers.  Will see about 80d max change from closed to "full electronically open"

Cutting the stop will give the throttle lever more movement range from idle to WOT 4.5v. which helps with find adjustments.  Many of the motors will only hit 4.3v. max TPS and still hit 100% motor load per the EMM.  What you want to shoot for is 100% Throttle Position reading in the software, an electronic calculation by the EMM.
Bending is faster than grinding/filing.

rickmcd53

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Reply with quote  #4 
I spent several hours making adjustments by all three methods while on water testing. Going from about 3.6 volts to 3.9 volts gained 100 rpm and 2/10 mph. My boat is heavy so lighter boats may see a bit more gain.
As I recall the 3.9v - 4.5v is a bit misleading. Wide open throttle for TPS calculations is 3.5 volts above idle TPS voltage. .5 - 4,. .6 - 4.1, or .4 - 3.9 would all be the same. Cutting the throttle stop portion of the cam will work by lowering the idle voltage. Any range above the 3.5 volt difference will do nothing.
The throttle plate at about 85 percent open will provide more air flow than the engine can use so no real gain in opening it 100 percent.
Nothing wrong with owners trying to adjust for maximum performance but one may see better performance gains by removing 100 lbs of excess gear from their boat or only filling the ice chest half full.
I should add that this is coming from a guy that played with motor height, props, throttle linkage, etc., and got his houseboat from 23 mph to 24.5mph. Then checked the rpm profile to see that I run wide open throttle less than 1 percent of the time.
ENichols56

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Reply with quote  #5 
Thanks for all of the replies. I like the bending idea as it should be robust yet reversible as opposed to grinding.  I put my new cam roller on and tweaked the linkage on my 90 last night. I am at 0.48V at idle and now up to 4.1 V at WOT instead of 3.57 V.  I hit the idle stop at idle, the WOT stop at WOT, and my roller gap at idle looks proper.  Throttle plates open around 80-85 degrees.  Hopefully a 3.6V delta gets me up to 100% TPS.  I'll have to wait until I get the boat on the water to report in with results.

I'll be doing the same on my 250 this weekend and let you know how it goes.

@rick, agreed it may be an exercise in futility, but I'm trying to determine the proper prop size and style on my "new to me" 250, so want to make sure I know what my true WOT rpm is. A 19" Viper came with the motor and is pushing me to 44mph at 5250.  I think my old, heavy grady is better suited with a Rebel prop, so if I can get to 5500 through linkage adjustment with this prop I'll go with a 17 rebel.  If I stick at 5250 I might try a 15 rebel instead.  I'm open to propping recommendations as well.
seahorse

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Reply with quote  #6 
Even back in the old carburetor days, usually that last 10-15° of throttle opening did not make a speed difference but often increased fuel consumption slightly.
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steelhead

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Reply with quote  #7 
Be a good idea to run vacuum and sub'd clear fuel line at the motor air bubble leak tests on that old Grady even if it has a new fuel system.  Old plugged up bent kinked fuel line, plugged up or air leaking fuel tank pickups, hair balled anti siphon valves in boat fuel systems kill these E-TECs quickly from restricted fuel flow lean burn =s aluminum melting super hot combustion chambers.  

Helm forward cabin forward bow heavy boats such at the GW perform better with a bow lifter prop.  Motor/prop then lifts the bow up less hull hydrodynamic water drag.
The RX4 is E.s bow lifter heavy boat prop, high efficiency low slip increased fuel economy.  Should be able to turn their 16P up to 5400.

Do you have trim tabs on the boat?  Helps with take off and rough seas ride on deep V boats.

Also been a number of E. factory updates upgrades to early 90d V6 big block E-TECs.  Should have the REAL techs with E. factory database access see if your motor has had any of the upgrade work done on warranty back when it was new.  The cooling upgrades are critical.
There are a number of EMM firmware upgrades also, some of them important such as the improved cooling algorithm.  At least 10 firmware upgrades since these came out.
Parts upgrades/updates done after warranty period will not show in database, only paid warranty.

That's why the forum rules ask for model number and serial number in first post.  Your motor may be a 2005 2006 2007 model year, year of manuf or date of purchase means nothing in these.
ENichols56

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Reply with quote  #8 
Still haven't gotten the 90 on the water to test but I did get to test the 250 over the weekend. I replaced the cam roller and adjusted the throttle cable to the proper position at idle. I was showing 0.48v at idle and 4.4v at wot without making any tps linkage adjustments. With motor running I confirmed that I am getting 100% tps signal, so all is good on that front now. Next was a wot speed/rpm test. Boat was 3/4 full gas and one person, so fairly lightly loaded. It was windy so did a run into and with the wind. Average of the two runs @ wot was 45mph @ 5500 rpm with the 19p viper. If you do the math slip % is not great @16%. I'm going to swap for a 17p rebel with the shop that sold me the motor and see where I land as a first step.

The boat was originally a cut down transom but previous owner of the boat reworked the transom and added a stainless marine bracket. Where the bracket had to be mounted to hit the meat of the transom was a tad on the low side. Motor is mounted as high as possible and still water on top of cav plate at cruise. Thus, I believe I can pick up some revs once I can get around to installing a jack plate or pieces of angle to raise the motor a couple inches.

@steelhead, thx for the recommendations. I may took a look at that 4 blade once I gets some numbers with the 17p rebel.
Gotsea

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Reply with quote  #9 
ENI, propping is a very hard to say the list proposition (no punt intended) specially with boats  that have been modified in some way (like mine and yours) it took me several trips to the ramp with 3 or 4 different props at time and a set of sockets to change props and engine height right there at the ramp till I found the right all around fit to my liking.

Cheers  

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