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Gtownwes

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Reply with quote  #1 
Need some advice-

Recently purchased 25ft tritoon with an ‘07 150HO. Model number E150DHLSUF. Motor was propped with a 15x17, but was only getting 4800rpm WOT. Boat had a spare prop that was 15x15, which after installed brought rpms closer to 5000. Get maybe 5 hours on this used prop and hub is spun. Put the 15x17 back on and all is good (except back to low wot rpm). Purchase a brand new solas aluminum prop, 15x13 to try and bring rpms closer to top end of WOT range. Added another 300 or so rpms with 15x13, with WOT around 5300. Prop lasts for maybe 5 hours of runtime before hub is spun on this brand new prop.

Any advice? I’ve searched the site and seen references to adding more cooling to the hub and also referenced to fuel in the exhaust. Surely I shouldn’t drop down another size to something below 13” pitch? Had a hard time even finding that size. Motor is probably mounted a little high, on second to highest position.
PropNut

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Reply with quote  #2 
When was the last time the impeller was changed?  Have you verified the engine is maintaining the proper operating temperature?

The motor routes water in the exhaust to help cool the prop hub so if you have weak impeller or these passages are obstructed by debris then you can melt hubs.

Insure the engine has the correct trim tab installed and that the cooling passages in it and the lower unit are unobstructed.

If all of that is correct then there is a cooling passage in the inner exhaust housing that may need to be cleaned.  Bad news is this is quite the job as the powerhead need to be removed and many gasket surfaces to clean.

I would do everything i can to boost water pressure as much as possible before I would pull the powerhead.  ie: new complete water pump kit and glue in the liner, larger intake screens and modify the top edge to increase volume, make sure the engine is mounted correctly on the back of the boat and nothing is obstructing water flow.




PhilH12

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Reply with quote  #3 
I'd definitely be looking at "motor maintenance" first.  I wouldn't think that you're too high, but that all depends on your boat and load, etc.  Do you have "water pressure" sensor and gauge (or display)?  That would help a bit to see what's happening there.  The "Tri's" do run a lot more like a mono-hull, so if you can see your AV plate, I'd think it should be above solid water.  Mines always just a ton of spray from the two wakes converging at the motor - too hard to tell.

Meanwhile, all of that exhaust "stuff" should be checked, too.  Experts for your motor will chime in because I'm not sure exactly - my little 90 doesn't have what yours does.

Hope it helps, at least a little.

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
olypopper

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Reply with quote  #4 
I’ve run into several occurrences of melted hub syndrome on brand E, M and Y engines that were used to push heavy slow boats. The ultimate fix was to install a TBX hub type prop. The higher egt’s We’re just melting the pressed in soft rubber hubs.
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Gtownwes

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PropNut
When was the last time the impeller was changed?  Have you verified the engine is maintaining the proper operating temperature?

The motor routes water in the exhaust to help cool the prop hub so if you have weak impeller or these passages are obstructed by debris then you can melt hubs.

Insure the engine has the correct trim tab installed and that the cooling passages in it and the lower unit are unobstructed.

If all of that is correct then there is a cooling passage in the inner exhaust housing that may need to be cleaned.  Bad news is this is quite the job as the powerhead need to be removed and many gasket surfaces to clean.

I would do everything i can to boost water pressure as much as possible before I would pull the powerhead.  ie: new complete water pump kit and glue in the liner, larger intake screens and modify the top edge to increase volume, make sure the engine is mounted correctly on the back of the boat and nothing is obstructing water flow.






New impeller kit and full tune up and service at end of season ‘17.

Please forgive my ignorance- but the trim tab you mention, is that the piece affixed to the lower unit with the adjustable fin near the prop? My motor does not have one on it. Could that be part of my problem?
PhilH12

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Posts: 3,499
Reply with quote  #6 
I'd always want to see the engine set up to "factory spec's" to run as the design engineers were thinking.  Check on a Service Manual for yours with Barnacle Bill's (closed Sunday/Monday's I believe).

You also want to be seeing something up around 5,500 - 5,600 at WOT according to the chart I see.  Lugging will kill the whole engine eventually, and make maintenance a nightmare while it's doing it.

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
steelhead

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Reply with quote  #7 
Overpropping a motor resulting in low WOT rpms causes high exhaust gas temperatures, motor and prop hub damage as the other techs and owners have told you.
Can quickly melt a piston/cylinder, or parts in exhaust system from block to prop exhaust hub.  Will also overheat and damage expensive injectors.

Evinrude makes a great prop for large hard to push boats that are underpowered for the app.

763959 SSP TBX™ 3 15 5/8” 11”

Has the HD rated TBX 2 stroke high torque output TBX hub.  Many props designs today are for low torque 4 strokes with low exhaust temps.  Solas is made in the Far East, 99% 4 stroke.

Will put the motor in the Optimum WOT 5500>5800 range.

Much like matching tire type to vehicle and motor used on.

toobad4u

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Reply with quote  #8 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gtownwes


New impeller kit and full tune up and service at end of season ‘17.

Please forgive my ignorance- but the trim tab you mention, is that the piece affixed to the lower unit with the adjustable fin near the prop? My motor does not have one on it. Could that be part of my problem?


Yes, it could be part of the problem.  There is a small hole in that fin that diverts water back up into the lower unit and helps with cooling.  

Stephen


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07'  E200DCXSUF    SER # 5196644

2003 Cape Horn 19'  Loaded down.

PhilH12

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Posts: 3,499
Reply with quote  #9 
Reading back, How old is the boat?  We know the motor is '07.  Are there drain plugs in the rear of the tubes?  I'd pull 'em just for laughs and see if anything comes out.  Make sure you seal 'em up good when re-installing.

Tri's should float higher and run easier than twin toons, but a slow leak somewhere may be throwing extra weight on your boat that you don't know about.  I'd at least check that before propping for an "unknown" extra 1,000 lbs.  [wink]

Phil

__________________
Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
Gtownwes

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #10 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilH12
Reading back, How old is the boat?  We know the motor is '07.  Are there drain plugs in the rear of the tubes?  I'd pull 'em just for laughs and see if anything comes out.  Make sure you seal 'em up good when re-installing.

Tri's should float higher and run easier than twin toons, but a slow leak somewhere may be throwing extra weight on your boat that you don't know about.  I'd at least check that before propping for an "unknown" extra 1,000 lbs.  [wink]

Phil


Good question- Boat is an ‘08 model and I don’t recall seeing any drain plugs. I definitely don’t notice any tilt/lean and boat seems to float normal.
Gtownwes

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #11 
Thought I’d come back and share an update for anyone searching that may have a similar issue. First off, the HO series should have not been put on this pontoon. Apparently it’s designed more for bass boats, not heavy, hard to push pontoons. The final remedy was to take steelhead’s suggestion and apply the 11” SS prop with the TBX hub. No issues since. One other item to mention is the trim tab on the HO series has no fin... it’s flat with a hole in it. Thanks everyone!
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