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Bigfishbob

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Posts: 32
Reply with quote  #16 
Question, when did the exhaust valve design change to a grease nipple on both sides of the shaft? The unit that was put in last July only has a nipple on one side.
Huey

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Posts: 13,860
Reply with quote  #17 
Never, only the starboard side has the grease nipple, the port side is where the actuator is-could the dealer not answer this for you? If no grease on the nipple or internal passages they stuffed up and is why perhaps Evinrude cut the ties with them due to not knowing what they were doing. If the actuator is not working that is other problem and perhaps this dealer can put a case in for good will to help with the cost of this part. Not a big problem, only replaced a handful of actuators over the years but considering the mind-sections you have need to be replaced perhaps they could cut you a deal. 

Bigfishbob

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Posts: 32
Reply with quote  #18 
I am hopeful the Agents will come to the party. There is grease evident, but only on the shaft side of the grease nipple.

You've made me more curious now, when a valve mechanically jams, what is supposed to stop the actuator from burning out if it trying to move the valve but can't? I spoke to a number of other dealers on Friday in the rash hope I could find a used actuator that I could buy. The general comment is that they almost always have to replace the actuator when the valve sticks.
steelhead

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Posts: 4,097
Reply with quote  #19 
Is your boating in warm salt water?
Is the motor flushed after every use?

With so many expensive failures, need to change something in operating/use pattern.
Try doing the Winterization extra oiling routing after each use, especially when you can't flush or will be a week or more between uses.  Shut off immediately after the extra oiling.  Will leave extra oil in low speed chamber of exhaust where the valve is located.  The XD100 has extra carbon emulsifiers in it to help remove carbon.

Or run a shock triple dose in 3 gal tank of Carbon Guard in gas every other trip, burning up the 3 gal each time.

Please post up an Engine History report in .pdf file format.  There may be a running too cold motor issue, leaking thermostats, seals or PRV.  Resulting in extra carbon deposits in the exhaust
Bigfishbob

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Posts: 32
Reply with quote  #20 
13-24°C. water and yes always flushed after use on the same day. Both of the last two failures have failed with the valve in the high speed position. This suggests that it's failing on the way home from a days offshore trolling when I give it a WOT run back to the ramp at about 5650-5700 revs for 10-15 minutes.

Winterisation after each run? No point, because the way it's been failing, it's already stuck by the time I get home.
Huey

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Posts: 13,860
Reply with quote  #21 
Can not say on the mid-sections I have need to replace i can think of one where the actuator also was bad-hate to this of the overcharge for this procedure. the actuator has an internal spring in it, pull apart your one if you want to see what I mean and even if the valve is stuck the actuator still can work without damaging it.
AndyT

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Posts: 10
Reply with quote  #22 
Hi Huey,
Having problems again with my exhaust valve. It was fixed under warranty just over 2 years ago, apparently was the actuator that had failed.
Today its not working again. The boat hadn't been used for approx 6 months tho.
Is this a job that a mechanic must do? The nearest Etec dealer to me is now on the Gold Coast, over an hours drive each way. Local marine dealer mechanic can look at it and has repaired/replaced them in past.

EDIT:  Removed side cowls and the valve can be moved by hand, has spring resistance but otherwise moves about 30-40 degrees with firm stops at each end. Cant see how would get stuck in high speed position as mentioned above but ???
So can actuator be tested with 12v in situ or best to remove from case?


Andrew


Huey

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Posts: 13,860
Reply with quote  #23 
Start another thread if we are talking about another engine and you want help. Post model and serial number and we can go from there. if it has not been used for that period of time than it not ideal and what is your WOT RPM. As per the OP, easy to test if the actuator is working via Ev diag and as for if you can free up the exhaust valve itself it should be pretty easy if it is the late style with grease nipple and it was well greased went fitted.
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