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dadsdusky

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Posts: 160
Reply with quote  #1 
Model - DE300PXISG  Serial - 05279830

Went out trolling this morning. Noticed that between 1500-1650 the temperature goes up to 208. If I increase throttle to 1700 cools down to 160. It's cool at idle and a little above. Water pump is 4 months old and has new T-stats. Sounds like the pressure blow off valve isn't opening soon enough. Any ideas?

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2002 23' DUSKY FAC 2010 300 E-TEC
1980 18' Hewes Bonefisher 135 HO E-TEC
PhilH12

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Reply with quote  #2 

If this is the first time noticed since the "new T-stats", I would first wonder about them.  They aren't "always" calibrated correctly, even brand new.  Shouldn't be too difficult to remove them and put them in a pan of water with a good thermometer.  Heat the pan of water on the stove and see where they open, and also if they both open the same amount.

Otherwise, you might try a lighter spring in the PRV, if available.  I see 0352801 as your "stock" spring, but not sure if there's a direct fit replacement that's lighter.  Experts will chime in on that.

Phil


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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
dadsdusky

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Posts: 160
Reply with quote  #3 
I think if it was the t-stats it would run hot at idle also.
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2002 23' DUSKY FAC 2010 300 E-TEC
1980 18' Hewes Bonefisher 135 HO E-TEC
PhilH12

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Posts: 3,359
Reply with quote  #4 
Just my best guess and where I would start if it was me.  As mentioned - do they both open the same amount?  First time ever noticed at those rpm's?

To the best of my knowledge, you'll only see the hotter of the two banks on your Temp readings.  If they both open, but one doesn't get "open enough", it MAY be the cause?

Also (to the best of my knowledge), the PRV usually opens at a bit higher revs/Water Pressure than you're seeing.  That lighter spring, if available, may help but may also be a band-aid covering up a different problem.  Engine is Pushing 10 years old now, so it can pay dividends to check a few things - t-stats, water flow on both sides, that PRV flow, etc.

My sig says it all, before just throwing parts.  Yes, you can do that, but may be a while and a few $$$ before you actually get to the Real Story.  [wink]

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
TeamShadow

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Posts: 86
Reply with quote  #5 
Similar issue 2012 250 HO .After thorough troubleshooting and replacing thermostat water pump inlet screens
Went with spring and plunger from 2006. Resolved issue.
steelhead

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Reply with quote  #6 
Your profile picture shows operation over coral and landing on coral sand beaches.

Was the WP replaced as an OEM BRP kit?  Impeller only with sand often results in poor pump efficiency due to old damaged cup, bottom plate and seals

Coral sand and tide flats vegetation is light, often sucked up into the water intakes screens and into motor cooling passages creating partial/full blockages

Reverse blow out with hose all passages with thermostats out and PRV disconnected.

In waters with sand/vegetation, always pays to have a water pressure gauge.
Record readings in gear at 500 rpm increments, keep for future reference.
dadsdusky

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Posts: 160
Reply with quote  #7 
Just tested the thermostats. both open but one opens a little more than the other. Replaced both and will run boat to test.


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2002 23' DUSKY FAC 2010 300 E-TEC
1980 18' Hewes Bonefisher 135 HO E-TEC
PhilH12

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Posts: 3,359
Reply with quote  #8 
Just me, and I should have mentioned it before - I was taught to test 'em out of the box before installing.  If you get one that isn't quite right, you spend time scratching your head - They're Brand New!  That Can't be the problem!  [frown]

Also see Steelhead's comment on the complete BRP/Evinrude WP kit or impeller only.

Good Luck!

Phil

__________________
Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
dadsdusky

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Posts: 160
Reply with quote  #9 
I always use BRP products and complete water pump kits.
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2002 23' DUSKY FAC 2010 300 E-TEC
1980 18' Hewes Bonefisher 135 HO E-TEC
PhilH12

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Posts: 3,359
Reply with quote  #10 
OK, just checking.  I'd see how it goes with the new T-stats first.  Then maybe check water flow at various points - remove a coolant hose here and there - check the flow, and quickly put it back.

It's a bit "confusing" that this running a little hot at certain limited rpm's (1,500 - 1,650) seems to have just started after almost 10 years?  As mentioned by TeamShadow, the lighter PRV spring can help!  My ONLY fear there is possibly covering up a different problem that could bite much worse later on.

Good Luck!  [thumb]

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
mead

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Posts: 698
Reply with quote  #11 
Dads dusky, if memory serves me your engine has more hours than the average. Maybe near 1000? Please confirm. All this said, the question for me is what has changed? Assuming no overheat condition prior to thermostat replacement, If the new thermostats are functioning correctly why would a PRV and spring system function differently than before. Is water pressure something less than before? Is there a restriction elsewhere reducing water flow. Maybe changing from the original part number for the spring is not the right correction. Is the water flow passage between the water pump and the powerhead adapter flowing adequately?
TeamShadow

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Posts: 86
Reply with quote  #12 
I tried 2 different water pumps. The larger inlet screens. New thermostats. Ran on clear hoses looking at water flow and for bubbles. Mine started maybe on the 3rd year in. Maybe the spring got tighter over time. I don't know but it's been fine for 3 years now. I think if you're replacing the spring do the plunger also as both are different and I thought the replacement plunger made sense looking at it at the time. I would have to look for my comparison picture of the springs and plunger to explain further. I and my local dealer spent a lot of time tracking this down and this seems to have fixed mine. It showed the high temp around 1200 RPMs. Like my dealer said if I didn't have the digital tach with engine temp I probably would have never known. It only through the high temp alarm twice when this happened during one whole summer
dadsdusky

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Posts: 160
Reply with quote  #13 
Mead, as per my last post I found a t-stat not opening fully. Not sure what you mean by more than average on hours. We live in S.Florida and 1000 hours is nothing on a well maintained E-Tec. We are close to 1400 hours and it runs great! Would not hesitate to make a crossing to the Bahamas with it. Iv'e seen them 2000-2500 on them.


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2002 23' DUSKY FAC 2010 300 E-TEC
1980 18' Hewes Bonefisher 135 HO E-TEC
steelhead

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Reply with quote  #14 
If all else fails on high hour motor used in tropics, time to clean the engine cooling passages with HD cleaner.
Many use 30% acetic acid vinegar and dilute by half in run barrel.  Let run to temperature and then let soak

Commonly used in inboard marine engine and heat exchanger cleaning.  Works in outboards
http://www.rydlymemarine.com/

[187744] 
11beforesunrise

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Posts: 94
Reply with quote  #15 
Steelhead I’m curious . Have you used this product or the 30% acid solution? Have you seen a before and after use inside a outboard engine. Like the picture you posted then reassemble run the product then disassemble to see the improvement? On my old Johnson I had that overheating problem and when I pulled the heads it looked similar to the picture. Will that product make the water passage look like new? Or just clean up to be acceptable? It looks like a fantastic product. You are probably correct with your idea about op s problem. Salt build up or scale. That might have been the demise of my motor or contributed to it.
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