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JimmyCC

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Posts: 15
Reply with quote  #16 
Had the motor since 2014 bought it with 279 hours on it
All parts are factory
Would like too be able to do 700-800 rpm with out getting warm
PhilH12

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Posts: 3,503
Reply with quote  #17 
It's your engine and time on the water that counts!  There's not much point in boating if worrying all the time, when it's all about your own enjoyment on the water.

Meanwhile, you may have been running on the cool side, and now with the new thermo's, it may actually be liking that better?  Too cool is often worse than a bit warm at those lower speeds, as long as you don't get the dreaded over heats.

Other than that, you could drop the LU and do the impeller seating process.  The dropping and re-install will take longer than the impeller process itself - that's about 30 seconds.  See what the new temps are then?

Phil

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20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
JimmyCC

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Posts: 15
Reply with quote  #18 
I live on the river so not very hard to pull the boat Out and yes you are correct it will take longer to
pull the lower unit than do the adjustment
I have all the time in the world right now
Spec in manual is 160 @ wot
idle temp spec 135 +or- 15 degrees f

We will see tomorrow Phil

Thx Jim

seahorse

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Reply with quote  #19 

The engine temps in the book are for 70° water plus they are the top of the cylinder head temps read with a pyrometer or an infrared temp gun. The temps you seen on the screens are the higher of the two banks plus they are from a sensor located deep inside the cylinderhead and in a different location.

 

You may also want to temporarily connect an accurate water pressure guage and monitor the reads at idle and WOT and at 1000 rpm intervals and compare to the factory specs.

 Being a 2005 motor there were some bulletins back then concerning overheating and you should check with your dealer to see if they have been incorporated into your engine if applicable.


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steelhead

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Reply with quote  #20 
Old motor with lots of hours use in brackish/sandy/muddy waters?

All of the above doesn't solve?

Go old school strong vinegar douche with thermostats and caps removed.  Fill block a couple times with motor tilted up at 45D and let sit.

Drain and flush several times with hot water through garden hose in through thermostat holes, motor tilted full down.
Scottar

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Posts: 504
Reply with quote  #21 
I had a similar issue with my 200HO  after a service where the dealer fitted two new "correct" thermostats. After some research I purchased a pair of Ficht series thermostats that open 10 degrees cooler than the ones specified for the ETec's. Have not had an overheat or high running temp regardless of RPM since.
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E200DHXSDS. 05137215
JimmyCC

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Posts: 15
Reply with quote  #22 
Thx Scottar sounds like a great option
Weeble_Wobble1973

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Posts: 97
Reply with quote  #23 
I also had same issues, After replacing and RESEATING the impellar the correct way, the problem was solved. Not only running cooler and correct low rpm temps, but correct temps across the board and a very noticable difference in water pressure exiting the tail tail. 
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2001 sea pro 21'
2009-
E225DPXSEB 
05260972

JimmyCC

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Posts: 15
Reply with quote  #24 
Tried the impeller reset no luck thanks though
JimmyCC

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Posts: 15
Reply with quote  #25 
Problem solved
Ordered new 10degree cooler stats used in 2004 etec’s

Thank you to all that responded
Awesome forum
For those who may also go through this problem
BRP part # 5001036
Hydrasports2150

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Posts: 213
Reply with quote  #26 
Is the problem solved or did you just order the thermostats and hoping that is the fix.  Another option could be to go with a Lighter PRV spring from earlier etecs which would allow the PRV to open at lower rpms.
JimmyCC

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Posts: 15
Reply with quote  #27 
Have a crossover model part 2004 part 2005
Uses stats from 2004 PRV parts from 2004
Borrowed 2 stats from 2004 down the river and ran them no Low speed over heating issues
160 at idle , 170 at 800-1500 rpm than PRV valve opens at 1800 cools down to 150 and stays there
Different part #s 5005440 143 degree stat 2005 and up
5001036 133 degree 2003-2004
Hydrasports2150

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Posts: 213
Reply with quote  #28 
Glad to hear it worked out, don't know if you noticed or not but the temperature rating for the thermostats is actually stamped into the thermostat itself.  I always check it because one time I purchased two brand new thermostats for my engine with the same part number (5001036) and got one 133 degree and one 143 degree.
speckman1

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Posts: 132
Reply with quote  #29 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyCC
2005 etec 225HO
Motor is running at 170 degrees at 500 rpm
Has always run 160 @idle
Replaced thermostats
Rebuilt pressure relief valve
And put new water pump kit in
Still running 170 @ idle
What am I missing ?

Thx
Jim



My 250 temp at 500 rpm is around 165 then when I go on plane a little above 4000 the temp goes  down to 155 with the water temp  in the bay  around 85 and in the winter when the bay is around 55 it goes down to 150.

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Savannah_Dan

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Posts: 48
Reply with quote  #30 
Lighter PRV spring fixed same problem on my 2006 250.
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1996 Pro-Line 231 WA
2006 E250DCXSDR
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