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JohnGW9

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Reply with quote  #1 

Need some advice on a recently occurring rough idle and slight stumble issue, check engine and low oil alarms.

Just completed the full 300-hour service, in boat and engine separators replaced. Replaced the plug leads as one shield wire was broken, corroded. Ran on hose for leak check, no alarms but a bit rough. ‘Surge’ of maybe 100 rpm as it idled and kind of rhythmic, no alarms. Perhaps a miss? When in the water this weekend, same roughness at idle. Smooths out at about 1100 RPM.

Low oil alarm after about 1-minute in water run time, tank is full. I had run winterization not long ago to clear any bubble from the oil system at 1052 hours, code 38 at 1052:15.

Check engine alarm just as away from the dock. In gear at 800 RPM, the alarm silenced as normal but light remained for some time. The light went off after several minutes, never came back on. Low oil light still illuminated.

A slight stumble on quick acceleration but smooth at 11-1200 RPM and no issues with performance. Oil light went off after 15 or so minutes above 2000 RPM while making a sweeping turn. Never came back on.

Total water run time about 1 hour. Hooked the computer up, out of the water and unable to run while connected. Current hours 1071:07. Report shows code 17 at 1069:15. Assuming Code 17 caused the check engine alarm in the water. Also shows code 11 at 1051:14.

Hopefully will get it hooked up while running this week. Not sure what to expect. Appreciate the assistance.

E150DPXSUF

05184512


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John
JohnGW9

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Reply with quote  #2 

I was able to get a computer hooked up while running in the stack this past weekend. Idle RPM was 500 with a variation between 495 and 511. 500 RPM seems low but I couldn’t find any data on what it should be. I did see the 55v circuit drop to 42v in unison with a RPM drop to 470 RPM once. I didn’t find any suspect connections on a quick visual so would seem the stator test is next. Any recommendations on turning the specified RPM for the test? I’m thinking pulling the plugs and using a cordless drill. Thoughts?


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John
Nordmann

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Reply with quote  #3 
Code 11 was probably by lifting winterization lever at start-up.

Code 17 indicates problem with 55volt circuit. Check capacitor condition (No oil leaks), connections and make sure flywheel magnets are in place.

Seeing you got a 'computer' hooked up, please post an engine report.

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JohnGW9

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Reply with quote  #4 
I'll inspect the capacitor and magnets when I get to the marina later this week. Report attached

 
Attached Files
pdf ETEC 07202020.pdf (30.66 KB, 11 views)


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John

steelhead

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Reply with quote  #5 

Latest EMM firmware upgrade will likely help also

REV 701. Improved starting and new fueling map.  Last firmware improvement for that model.

Also, need to completely exam and test the oil tank to motor oil system and the oil pump system.  Showing 1 hr and 40 minutes of No Oil time.

Oil tank contaminated with water, oil pickup sock plugged with dirt/debris, oil line kinked/hole, line connector air leaks, motor oil filter plugged, air in motor oil lines, motor wiring corroded, defective oil pump.

I would remove the tank and clean, blow out and flush all the oil hoses.

The oil pump is powered by the 55v power circuit

JohnGW9

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Reply with quote  #6 
Oil tank is coming out this week if time permits for cleaning. I assume it's going to be cruddy just from time in service. I'll purge the system and re prime after a visual inspection of lines, wiring, and pump test.

Where can I locate the firmware? I appreciate the assistance. 

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JohnGW9

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Reply with quote  #7 
The low oil light was associated with the tank and that issue is gone. While running at idle the check engine alarm sounded, code 17.

I attempted to do the stator tests today but was unable to remove the J2 connector - the lock slide was bound against the tray/shield under the EMM; is there some way to remove the connector without removing the EMM?

I did perform the stator output test but went off script a bit. Before powering the system I too a resistance reading using the test plug. 3.1 ohms with the windings in series, should be 1.5 to 6 per the test parameters for individual windings I believe. Also no short when tested to the block. Would those numbers be potentially valid or at 3 ohms can it be assumed one winding may by over spec?

As for the actual test I got a 21.3 volt reading at starter RPM, was consistent using either battery.

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John
JohnGW9

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Reply with quote  #8 
Finally got this resolved. Took a bit of time to get all the tools in hand but it was actually pretty routine. Flywheel had 4 missing magnets. A quick trip through the shop at Five Star Marine and all is well. Ran for about 4 continuous hours this past weekend without any issues.
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John
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