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GrimesinMA

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Posts: 7
Reply with quote  #1 
I have a 2005 Evinrude 90 (E90DPLSOR) that has a cracked oil tank.  I have ordered the replacement tank (5007253).  On a scale of one to ten, how difficult of a job is this.  I have worked on my own cars for most of my life and I have lots of tools.  Before I start tearing things apart I just wanted a sanity check.
Thanks,
Monty
seahorse

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Reply with quote  #2 
IF you know which end of a screwdriver to hold, are familiar with Oetiker clamps,  and can follow a service manual, it should not be a problem.
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...possessing more tools than talent !


My sarcasm and my sincerity sound surprisingly similar !
stammster

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Posts: 38
Reply with quote  #3 
I replaced mine a few years ago for the same problem. I did not remove the lower engine covers, but it would have made things easier. If you go this route, be careful. There is in bolt at the rear top that is a pita to access. Don't overtighten any of those bolts when you put it back on, or you will crack the plastic.

There is only one big Oetiker to deal with that holds in the oil pump. Reclamp with a pair of wire cutters. They are very intuitive to put on, and take a little prying with a screwdriver and vice grips to get off.

1-1.5 hr job going slow...and as seahorse says it is not very difficult. If I had to do it again it may take 30 min.
Mike_D

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Posts: 8
Reply with quote  #4 
Hi - I have a 2005 75 HP E75DPLSDA sn: 05131750. The oil tank is leaking XD-100, not only messy but expensive [smile] Thanks to this forum I tracked down the tank replacement kit with the clamp / gasket and tank lid.

I am reasonably handy (have owned this motor for ten years and done each of the three year services myself). I have the engine covers off and was getting ready to pull the oil pump out of the tank. It does not want to move. Anyone know the correct procedure to remove the oil pump from the tank. My manual states "Remove oil pump clamp, remove oil pump"...Not the most helpful description on how to remove a $500 oil pump!

Thanks - Mike
bunkergroup

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Posts: 315
Reply with quote  #5 
Lever it out. The only damage you can do is to the tank or rubber grommet. If replacing the tank then get under the grommet before leveraging to avoid scoring the grommet.
Mike_D

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Posts: 8
Reply with quote  #6 
Thanks [smile] I just need to man up!
bunkergroup

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Posts: 315
Reply with quote  #7 
Take care when pressing it back into the new tank last time I did one I over did the pressing part and it popped all the way into tne tank..☹ Took a bit to retrieve it...
DeepBlue

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Posts: 147
Reply with quote  #8 
I also had an leak, i fixed it with q-bond,its olso oil resistant and sealed the leak perfect.
Crosbyman

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Posts: 537
Reply with quote  #9 
faulty product ...with bad weld joints :-(   mine cracked also after a rough ride on a fishing trip but  was paid by my extended coverage warranty (FPC FCP...years ago) 


   tank costs should be on BRP  12 years later or not....... just mho ...... the tank likely  cost 5$  to make anyway  

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ETEC 75 HP  2005  ser# 05107924  &  1966  9.5 hp  Sportwin 9622a 
bunkergroup

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Reply with quote  #10 
How did ya go with your tank
DeepBlue

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Reply with quote  #11 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bunkergroup
How did ya go with your tank


Who u refering to?
bunkergroup

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Reply with quote  #12 
Mike_D
Mike_D

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Reply with quote  #13 
Going good [smile] I decided to replace the pop off valve while I had the oil tank off. So that added a few days waiting for parts. All in all not too difficult of a job.

Mike
DeepBlue

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Posts: 147
Reply with quote  #14 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_D
Going good [smile] I decided to replace the pop off valve while I had the oil tank off. So that added a few days waiting for parts. All in all not too difficult of a job.

Mike
do u need to prime the oil via the emm using software or not neccerry for priming?
bunkergroup

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Posts: 315
Reply with quote  #15 
Wouldn't hurt to push some oil through it. If no access to Ev diag. Could run a winterization. Thats what I did before. I had Ev diag.
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