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kylelp

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Posts: 32
Reply with quote  #61 
I dunno why it shows it like that copy link (https://youtu.be/bc0U4EgDoHg
Nordmann

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Posts: 1,522
Reply with quote  #62 
# The update software mentioned earlier is not done on Evinrude Diagnostic, but on a different program sent to all dealers back in the days. An amber alert should have been displayed on the version number at the Diagnostic Identification page.

# Some DFI and earlier E-TECs with the snap connector had the filter fitted tip out.  In our shop we use a large Phillip screw driver and slightly ream (chamfer) the end of the brass nipple to assist with the insertion of filter.

# On all motors with snap on connectors done here, the filter has been fitted with tip IN. Never caused any issues, and makes it easy to remove with a self tapper screw. (I know Seahorse has some reservations regarding reversing the filter)

# Undoing the Oeticker clamp on oil pump and releasing it, makes it possible to remove it without disconnecting either oil lines or electric connector. As an earlier poster suggested, remove port side cover and slide oil tank down.

# Part number for  VST return filter: 0354190. Exhaust muffler filter: 0351244.

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Nordmann.

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There is nothing the dentist can do, that the patient won't do!
kylelp

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Posts: 32
Reply with quote  #63 
Hey guys i need help with the oil tank.

I got the new tank on but am having trouble putting the pump back in the tank.  I am not sure if the big rubber o ring should go in the tank first then put the pump through the o ring.  Or put the oring on the pump then put it in the tank.  The o ring looks to be slightly bigger than the whole of the oil tank. 

I 1st put the o ring on the pump then tried to put the pump in the tank.  However when putting the pump + o ring, it caused the o ring to not go as far (its hard to explain but it wasn't on right).  Then i had to take the pump and o ring out(which was a pain).  I tried to put the o ring on the tank then the pump through the o ring and this seems to be harder.  

I feel like something is catching and not letting the pump go down in the tank.  I am trying to be very careful not to hit the bottom end of the pump against the tank.

Any advice is deeply wanted.
        
bunkergroup

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Posts: 315
Reply with quote  #64 
From memory its clamp over tank then outer rubber sleeve orientated so notch in grommet lines up. Then insert grommet. Yes its a bit fiddly. Possibly your not lining up the notch. Grommet tends to wanna push the outer ring into tank.

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kylelp

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Posts: 32
Reply with quote  #65 
so put o ring in tank then pump into o ring

kylelp

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Posts: 32
Reply with quote  #66 
Well i'm giving up for tonight.  I can't get it to go down, i push pretty hard and it just doesn't go in.  I am worried that the pump is hitting some part of the plastic tank inside.  I can't see anything but that is the only thing i can think of if it won't go down.  It feels like something is physically stopping it from going down.  I get it down maybe 1/8th of an inch and can go anymore.

any thoughts?
kylelp

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Posts: 32
Reply with quote  #67 
Well I took out the o ring just to see if it was hitting anything.  Unfortunately the pump when in just fine without the o ring (but loose).  So it isn't hitting anything in the tank but its just too tight.  I might try to bend the outter plastic and see if i can get it to fit then
bunkergroup

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Posts: 315
Reply with quote  #68 
So you are lining up the cut out in the outer ring with the notch on the grommet ?
bunkergroup

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Posts: 315
Reply with quote  #69 
Yes oring into tank then push in grommet. Its a tight fit. As I mentioned in another post. Ya gotta push fairly hard .
Nordmann

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Posts: 1,522
Reply with quote  #70 
The trick is to clean the outer circumference of grommet and inside flange of oil tank with acetone, paint thinner or similar. Fit grommet in tank. Use oil on pump housing only.

Stick pump into tank. Attach tank to engine. Now you can use a lever (careful) from the lifting eye to force pump down. A socket on top of pump housing may help for levering.

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Nordmann.

Sign seen in a dentist's waiting room:
There is nothing the dentist can do, that the patient won't do!
kylelp

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Posts: 32
Reply with quote  #71 
Thank you everyone for your help.  I finally got the pump in and was able to use the winterization mode to prime it.

I still have a hard time running the motor at low/idle rpm.  I had to cheat and start the engine, rev it up to 1000 rpm for a second then kill it.  Then started it in winterization mode.  This kept the motor from dieing while beginning the winterization mode.  Before this i attempt the winterization strait up and it would die after 5 seconds in the process.  
kylelp

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Posts: 32
Reply with quote  #72 
I also used muffs to winterize the motor.  I wasn't a big fan of this since I don't think it cools the engine down as well as flushing or being in the water (at the higher rpms).  But it was a cool day, towards the end the water was coming out lukewarm.
kylelp

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Posts: 32
Reply with quote  #73 
Thank for everyone's help in getting the software and oveall confidence to work on my engine.

I am having a Code 16 the CPS sensor is not correct.  I am not sure how to fix this or why this is happening?

kylelp

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Posts: 32
Reply with quote  #74 
I am saying code 16 because when i turn the emm in the on position LED 1 and LED 2 do not light up

slightlee

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Posts: 167
Reply with quote  #75 
Found this old post from sea horse..

http://www.etecownersgroup.com/post/etec-emm-led-diagnostic-system-5169120

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2004 etec 75hp e75dplsrc  05059699
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