Brought to you by Barnacle Bill's Marine Supply. (856) 785 9455

Sign up Latest Topics
 
 
 


Reply
  Author   Comment  
crabby

Registered:
Posts: 111
Reply with quote  #1 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=109BPgW4D9vIdQ9HgiLH6qsHgs7Si2IhN


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1535-W-e0h-hbqhxg779jCuj-PJpOudmP



Not the best images but the area inside the red box  is compromised aluminum casting in the exhaust chamber of a 3.3 liter block, likely caused when number 6 piston also melted down.  Seeking opinions as to whether that section can be ignored, is repairable by a competent welder, or is the block toast?

As an aside, the exhaust adapter plate is melted and cracked also and would need to be replaced.  Not to mention some of the moving parts.

Thanks for any and all opinions.

Paul

__________________
2004 90hp ETEC/17 BW Montauk, 15 pitch Stiletto
2009 250 3.3l ETEC/22 BW Outrage with Whaler Drive (bracket), 15 pitch Rebel
Gotsea

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 1,386
Reply with quote  #2 
I would not take the risk to repair, assemble a reman block put it all together  to have it fail again, the metal could be compromised
__________________
1994 24 WA Baha
2008 300 HP DPXSC S/N 05228253
15 1/4 X 19 Mirage Plus 47 MPH top end @ 5,750 RPM
32 MPH cruising @ 12.5 g/h
 South Florida
crabby

Registered:
Posts: 111
Reply with quote  #3 
That's my gut feeling, never had a meltdown like this so just looking for more experienced folks to chime in.
__________________
2004 90hp ETEC/17 BW Montauk, 15 pitch Stiletto
2009 250 3.3l ETEC/22 BW Outrage with Whaler Drive (bracket), 15 pitch Rebel
Evinrude

Avatar / Picture

Moderator
Registered:
Posts: 2,258
Reply with quote  #4 
We had seen worse then that. A good welding shop should be able to make it good to go. If the rest of the block looks ok I would fix it.


__________________
Barnacle Bills Marine
To order parts please call (856) 785 9455
Please have your model number ready

For Evinrude Customer Service please call (844) 345 4277
Please have your model and serial number ready
steelhead

Avatar / Picture

Registered:
Posts: 4,097
Reply with quote  #5 
Do you have digital engine temperature gauges onboard?  What temps the motor run at just below plane speed and on plane heavy load?

Please post an Engine Profile History report in .pdf format

What's the WOT rpms heavy and light loads?

Should be no less than 5500 rpms with max heavy load.

When was the water pump and PRV last serviced?

Have a water pressure gauge on board?

Large BWs are hard to push at off plane hull speeds.  Motor develops lots of heat.

To make informed rebuild decision, pull the heads and plenum crankcase cover off to examine all cylinders and bearings.  Any metal cuttings in crankcase?  More than 1 cylinder involved/damaged?

Good competent machine shop in the area that knows how to do resleeving in blind hole 2 stroke blocks and a quality dealer that does engine rebuilds, you're all set

Welding exhaust housing, machine shop work and parts, E. dealer shop rebuild and parts, should be less than $4,000 if only 1 cylinder damaged and crank is good
Definitely replace the #6 injector and any other injectors on damaged cylinders, 10 year old injectors.  
Send the others out for cleaning and bench testing to specs.
crabby

Registered:
Posts: 111
Reply with quote  #6 
@Evinrude: Thanks for the encouragement.  Need to locate a good welder and get an up close opinion. 

@Steelhead: Boat is (was) propped to spin 5800 (15 pitch Rebel), a heavy load on this boat is two people and 35 gallons of fuel.  Temps are fine, at the time of year it blew the motor would run around 163F regardless of load (one person vs two of us).  Brand new water pump this summer.  PRV and thermostats looked fine when I stripped the block.  Pressure gauge died a year or two ago.  Digital temp provided by EMM to both a Lowrance screen and the LM400.  Exhaust adapter plate is toast, nothing to repair; those pics are inside the exhaust chamber of the block.  #6 cylinder liner ng as is piston and likely connecting rod etc.  Yes, lots of aluminum deposits all over the exhaust system and some tossed into the #6 reeds.  I haven't split the case yet but would install all new bearings as well as the moving parts and liner for #6, and injector,  IF I bother to rebuild.

If you really want to see an engine history I need to dig out my laptop, but there is nothing remarkable there especially regarding the meltdown due to what I am figuring was detonation.  Boat was running very well; the only thing I did different the evening it popped was I ran at a slow cruise (around 3800 rpms) for a fifteen minute ride about an hour before it died; boat was planed off with two of us aboard in flat conditions, just running slower than I usually do.  Normally I like to keep it at an easy 4200 to 4800 for cruising as the motor and boat just seem happier going on the faster side of things.

I have another thread going relating to whether or not using aftermarket reeds may or may not contribute to detonation (thinking about plastic reeds flowing more air and contributing to a leaner than stock mixture).  For no reason other than fuel was affordable I had been running high test (92 octane 10% EtOH) gas most of the summer but recently had switched back to regular (87 octane, 10%EtOH).  Just tossing those things out.

But my immediate concern is whether or not that exhaust partition is repairable.  Thanks Evinrude for your thoughts!

__________________
2004 90hp ETEC/17 BW Montauk, 15 pitch Stiletto
2009 250 3.3l ETEC/22 BW Outrage with Whaler Drive (bracket), 15 pitch Rebel
Previous Topic | Next Topic
Print
Reply

Quick Navigation:

Easily create a Forum Website with Website Toolbox.

Disclaimer: Activities and modifications described or displayed on this message board and it's pages may be potentially dangerous. E-TEC Owners Group along with Barnacle Bills Marine does not endorse or make any claims to their safety or performance. Be sure a trained E-TEC service technician performs all your service work.