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MeanKitty

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Reply with quote  #1 
I have a pair of 2008 300's with about 225 hours on them. They have been pretty much trouble free until this year when BOTH computers failed within 15 minutes of one another (I know -- strange).

Anyway, I didn't miss much in the way of cruise time, but after the the first computer was replaced, that engine started showing an odd intermittent problem. The ignition would suddenly go completely dead. I mean dead; turn the key, no click, no turning over, no nothing. The first time this happened I called the dealer and he ad me hit the Battery Parallel switch -- still nothing.

As I backed away from the dock contemplating the 15 mile trip home on one engine, I tried it again and it started! I ran all day with no problems.

Since that day it's happened several times and it always starts a few seconds after I put the other engine in gear. Now it's happening almost all the time, so I'm getting nervous.

Anyone ever seen or heard of this -- any ideas?

The dealer has no ideas and I don't think Evinrude does either...
jimh

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Reply with quote  #2 
I have about 50 ideas where to look for a discontinuity in the circuit:

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/electricStart.html

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waterfront

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Reply with quote  #3 

+1 to what jimh said.
First take a good look at your key switch and see if there is any exposed wire or bad connections.
good place to start at least.
good luck

MeanKitty

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Reply with quote  #4 
I suppose guys, but again -- it ALWAYS starts like nothing was wrong 5 seconds after I put the other engine IN GEAR and it runs like a top until I turn it off.

I'm not a dope, I understand about loose battery contacts, etc...
seahorse

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Reply with quote  #5 
Since the problem started after the EMM was installed, a close inspection of the ground wires, connectors, pins, and sockets on the engine computer and wiring harness would be the first order of business.
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steelhead

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Reply with quote  #6 
Do you have 120v AC plumbed on board dockside?
Or use 120v ac extension cord chargers much?
waterfront

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Reply with quote  #7 
We were not inferring that u are a "dope" by trying to point you in the right direction. We are just assuming that by the descripton of your issues that it is electrical.
We can only assume that you have not looked through the electrical system as you did not mention looking at it, besides hitting the parallel switch. 
Not every sugestion by the fine people on this forum is a automatic fix.  
good luck with your dilema hope its something simple.
LourPitcher

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Reply with quote  #8 
Unclear myself what your symptoms above are.....

Thread title indicates a dead ignition, which indicates ignition coils/spark plugs are electrically dead.

Write-up though seems to only point to a dead starter circuit with the engine not trying to crank at times.

Not sure if only your ignition is sometimes failing or if the starter only is failing or if both circuits are failing at times.

Without taking much needed voltage measurements and checking connections,  can only ponder that the associated electro-mechanical related parts might be among the likely cause as they are perhaps most suspect to cause an intermittent type failure if a loose or bad connection is not the cause. 

This includes the 1) the STARTER switch, 2) the gear shift neutral safety position switch, and 3) the  Kill safety switch and then the solenoid and major components of the starter cirucuit. 

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Quote:
Since that day it's happened several times and it always starts a few seconds after I put the other engine in gear


If the failing motor always starts after the good 2nd motor is placed into gear and starts applying its' charge voltage boosting its cranking battery power, does this higher battery voltage without the battery parallel switch still reach and is now able to boost the cranking battery voltage on the suspect motor? 

 




Pershing_Road

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Reply with quote  #9 
I have a troubleshooting rule that is regularly reinforced by experience. Weird behaviors are almost certainly related to a bad ground (contact, connection or path).
MaximumB1

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Reply with quote  #10 
Hi,
Dug up this old thread on a search. I have a 2012 300. 350 hours.  Been having this same problem for months. Single engine. I first thought it was the typical key cylinder turning in the bezel. Nope. I have replaced the ignition switch, solenoid, grounding, new batteries.  Then I focused on the binnacle neutral safety switch. I removed it and when manually operated the switch, I had ignition. I reinstalled the switch and still had the same problem. Then I found that if I pushed the throttle in forward and slowly brought it back towards neutral, I could hear two clicks, then it would connect. The shifting felt sloppy with no hard neutral position. I found the cable had a little slack, so I tightened it. Have a definite neutral position now, but still have the issue unless I get the throttle in the exact position. Thought I could live with that, but then yesterday, twice, I could turn the key to the off position and the engine wouldn't kill. 1st time few second delay, second time had to turn batteries off.

I was curious about reply #6, as this is the case. However, happens without 110 connected. This is driving me crazy. There is a serious lack of E Tec mechanics in my area and I am pretty much on my own.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
seahorse

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Reply with quote  #11 
Website policies discourage the resurrection of old threads. Please read the FAQ.

It is recommended that you start a new thread with your post. We would then be glad to assist.

Thank you

SH
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