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bayonnebandit

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Posts: 113
Reply with quote  #16 
Hooky,
I believe you are referring to my thread about my dead EMM and 10 amp fuse blowing. I went through the process of trying to diagnose my failed EMM (they usually have a reason as to why they blow up) and I found a few frayed wires on my wiring harness going to the internal capacitor. I can’t know for sure, but everything else checked out so I believe that is the culprit. I replaced the wiring harness and the EMM and she fired up. In my neck of the woods it is winter and snowing, so I haven’t been able to put any hours on the engine, but I’m hoping the issue is in the past. If you haven’t had overheating, I would do a very detailed check of all your wiring to see if you can find anything. It’s tedious, but if there is a problem it will only damage your new or repaired EMM. Also, just a thought, I came up empty on the repair end of things having been told that the Etec EMM (unlike the Ficht version) can not be worked on because of the protective jelly they put the components in (mentioned in a previous post). Even if it can be done, I personally wouldn’t trust it. You prob are better off getting a used EMM off of a donor engine if you have the diagnostic data from your current EMM. Let me know if you have any questions and I will try to help as best I can.

Best

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21ft starcraft aluminum center console 2004 ETEC 90hp 
Searider

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Posts: 187
Reply with quote  #17 
Had a funny time last weekend .. 
Rigging a 6m RIB with 2x 90hp ETECs - both 2005 models . 
One motor I bought with faulty EMM . Sent it to Holland and guys repaired it . 
Wrote here about my experience with them . 

https://www.etecownersgroup.com/post/successful-emm-repair-10248680?pid=1309400539

While working last weekend on the harness , dual control box , starting switches etc I trimmed the engine fully up - and suddenly the 10A fuse blow again .. 
I was confused what the h.. could cause that . Checked all engine harness , connectors etc - nothing - fuse blows . 
Disconnected J2 - fuse still blows - good sign that the EMM is not shot again . 
Finally I found in the console the purple / black harness for gauge illumination with open ends causing the short cut ... 
I did not pay attention to it but the guys who ripped the harness out of their old boat neither .. 


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rickmcd53

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Posts: 2,492
Reply with quote  #18 
A purple (violet) and black wire are key on power and ground. Some rig it to gauge lighting which keeps the gauges lit anytime the key is on. The Evinrude MWS harness has two pigtails that had ring terminals. Purple, black, grey was for non system check tachometers. Purple, black, white/tan is for a trim gauge.
Searider

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Reply with quote  #19 
Thanks for explanation of wire codes .
The main message of my post was actually that - regardless of the wire color - the root cause of a blowing 10A is not necessarily always on the motor . 
Worth it to check entire system .

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rickmcd53

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Reply with quote  #20 
Excellent point Searider as the boat system is often overlooked. As an Evinrude tech we have the advantage of having a "shop ignition switch" that plugs directly to the engine and bypasses the boat harness. We often use it for the convienvence of having a switch at the engine but can also be used as a diagnostic tool.
I have seen a lot of "wiring nightmares" on older boats where it was faster to rewire than to repair.
Hooky

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Posts: 6
Reply with quote  #21 
Thanks for the help chaps, I thoroughly read every word of everyone's comments.
When my etec mechanic diagnosed a failed EMM he also had a false loom , he plugged it in and sure enough it blew again !
This is why I made the statement that I fully trust him, it was only the ridiculous amount of money that I was quoted , nobody minds anyone making a profit .I VERY much mind a attempt to be a easy target for greed when he has already been paid a very fair sum for rigging it in the first instance .

Please don't forget that sometimes things just go wrong for no apparent reason whatsoever , it's part of owning anything that has electronic components , they can go pop after one hour or ten years.

This old iPad that I'm typing on is 8 years old, it gets thrown around the house, it goes out on my boat (navionics etc) it still works as well as the first day I bought it , even then it was second hand !

I had a much newer iPad , bought brand new and went pop within 7 months .

The local police have had two Suzukis fitted to there Rib last year, they have had some major and minor errors in one engine only, gearboxes,warped head, worn valves, etc etc , it just happens.
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