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johnnyv4449

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Posts: 15
Reply with quote  #1 
Hello everyone

2009 etec 250

I've been having issues with one of my 250s. It seems like a fuel pump. It loses power while running. I checked the intake, intake line to the separators and changed the fuel water separator and filters. There was junk caught in the separator. I also removed the primer ball being it seemed like it was not working right. When I did remove it I thought it fixed the issue but it doesn't seem right from a power perspective. Do these etecs need a bulb? I need to take it in to get checked but the closest dealer is an hour plus by water. Anything I can check at my dock? Is it worth me getting software myself? Just to diagnose if I have an injector issue or something? My tilt was never configured so I need that done as well.

I have no issues with the starboard engine. It uses the same tank with its own intake line and filters.

Thoughts?

Johnny

Shahradivans

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Posts: 8
Reply with quote  #2 
I have the same problem. i have changed all the filters and it did not help at all. Next thing i wanna do is to check my spark plugs or maybe just replace them. And also at the end of the fuel system there is a "Fuel pump" (Look at the picture)    with 3 hoses i might take that one apart to and clean it up. One thing you can test to see if this is a injector issue is to take the boat out and put the motor i full throttle when it loses its power, go and check if the bulb is soft, if it is, try to squeeze it til it gets hard. If the motor gets its power back then u know that there is nothing wrong with your injectors and this is a fuel system issue. 
ddd.png 

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PhilH12

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Posts: 2,831
Reply with quote  #3 
Two separate pickups in the fuel tank?  Not recommended to run a "T" off of one pickup tube.  Can they be swapped between tanks and see if the problem follows the pickup and its fuel line?

There should be a bulb, and it should be genuine EV, not aftermarket.  How old are the lines and bulbs?

If there is any problem "time-wise" in getting to a dealer and getting an appointment, I always recommend the software, cable and genuine Service Manual.  They'll sound "pricey" all together, but will pay for themselves over and over.

EDIT: ++ to Shahradivans.  The Clear Hose and Vacuum tests in the Service Manual will help check out the Lift Pump.  Then the Pressure Test on the HP pump will tell if that may be getting 'weak'.  DO NOT keep running it Lean! (if that's what is happening.)

Sorry for more questions than answers.

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
muskiemouth

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Reply with quote  #4 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shahradivans
I have the same problem. i have changed all the filters and it did not help at all. Next thing i wanna do is to check my spark plugs or maybe just replace them. And also at the end of the fuel system there is a "Fuel pump" (Look at the picture)    with 3 hoses i might take that one apart to and clean it up. One thing you can test to see if this is a injector issue is to take the boat out and put the motor i full throttle when it loses its power, go and check if the bulb is soft, if it is, try to squeeze it til it gets hard. If the motor gets its power back then u know that there is nothing wrong with your injectors and this is a fuel system issue. 
ddd.png 


You can buy rebuild kits for that pulse pump pictured.

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2015 Campion Chase 580 BR, 2016 G2 Etec 225 HO (E225LHAG)
johnnyv4449

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Posts: 15
Reply with quote  #5 
yes I have 2 separate lines, separate water separators. I physically pulled the intake line on that tank and blew it out to check. The lines have a number of years on them. The bulb was soft after running. I pulled it out to check the issue. I am going to replace it with and Evinrude bulb.

Phil, where can I get the software, cable and manual? I want to make sure I get legitimate stuff.

Johnny


muskiemouth

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Reply with quote  #6 
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyv4449
yes I have 2 separate lines, separate water separators. I physically pulled the intake line on that tank and blew it out to check. The lines have a number of years on them. The bulb was soft after running. I pulled it out to check the issue. I am going to replace it with and Evinrude bulb.

Phil, where can I get the software, cable and manual? I want to make sure I get legitimate stuff.

Johnny




Any Evinrude dealer, but supporting the owner of this site Barnicle Bills is always recommended.

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2015 Campion Chase 580 BR, 2016 G2 Etec 225 HO (E225LHAG)
PhilH12

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Posts: 2,831
Reply with quote  #7 
1- If the bulb was soft, that points more toward a restriction somewhere back in the lines/filters.  The lift pump is "trying" but can't bring the fuel.  BUT, the bulb won't stay totally firm either.  Rather than "soft" was it "partially collapsed"?  Compare it to the other engine.  EDIT:  That Lift Pump vac test will paint a more definite picture.  Don't want anything above 4" vacuum, and 1" or 2" is Good.

2- Any Genuine EV parts and supplies can be ordered by calling Barnacle Bill's - the owner and sponsor of this great "free to use" site  -  856-785-9455  (Closed Monday's).

Good luck!

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
johnnyv4449

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Posts: 15
Reply with quote  #8 
Great thanks...I call Bills tomorrow. The ball was soft not flattened out. I checked the lines from the separator to the tank they were open. Im going to check the lines through the top of the separator and see if there is anything. I might just order some new lines as well and just replace them. They are pretty easy to get to and a relatively cheap maintenance item.

Thanks for all the help!
PhilH12

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Reply with quote  #9 
Good idea!  [smile] 

I had similar problems a couple of years ago - stumbling at mid- upper- rpm's, and if I kept it up, it would quit.  I do 'dislike' just throwing parts, but on an older engine I replaced the whole fuel delivery system from pickup tube, lines, new Racor filter (and added a vac gauge with telltale) and into the motor.  Rebuilt the Lift Pump "just because it was old, too", and could then run WOT all day without a hiccup.

Good luck!

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
Weeble_Wobble1973

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Posts: 71
Reply with quote  #10 
The anti siphon valve can get plugged or sticky also. Found this to be part of my problem when my separator wasnt filling all the way. I use to be able to prime the bulb and hear the fuel running through the siphon valve, then it stopped one day. Easy quick test. 
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Justin
2001 sea pro 21'
2009-
E225DPXSEB 
05260972

PhilH12

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Reply with quote  #11 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Weeble_Wobble1973
The anti siphon valve can get plugged or sticky also. Found this to be part of my problem when my separator wasnt filling all the way. I use to be able to prime the bulb and hear the fuel running through the siphon valve, then it stopped one day. Easy quick test. 


++ to Weeble-Wobble.  Good Point!  Just me (and I did neglect to mention) that I REMOVED both the A/S valve and the Quick Connect connection.  While I Do Not advocate any violations, I wanted and ended up with a free flowing fuel delivery system.  They're not checked here, and I'm not polluting my own fishing grounds with fuel leaks, etc..  Meanwhile, the OWNER is mostly responsible for their own boat and its Safety.

The more you add, the more that can go wrong.

Just the "View from Under the Shade Tree" though.  [wink]

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
Gotsea

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Reply with quote  #12 
I had to removed the AS valve years ago when I was running a thirsty merc because it will kill the engine after a 10 minutes WOT run, never put it back (18 years ago)

+1 to Phil

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1994 24 WA Baha
2008 300 HP DPXSC S/N 05228253
15 1/4 X 19 Mirage Plus 47 MPH top end @ 5,750 RPM
32 MPH cruising @ 12.5 g/h
 South Florida
johnnyv4449

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Posts: 15
Reply with quote  #13 
So I replace the ball to see if that was it and the engine is still running as rough as can be. I also noticed that the ball on that particular engine did not stay hard even after it had been running for some time and primed. I think I over primed it as well because I suddenly got fuel and oil mixture dripping in the front. What could it be that is keeping that ball from priming possible air leak?
PhilH12

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Reply with quote  #14 
The ball won't stay very firm when running - that's Normal.  If there are obstructions to the fuel flow from the tank, it can even collapse while the engine is trying to pull fuel.

The fuel in front is most likely a sticky VST vent valve.  Instead of lifting up and shutting off the incoming fuel (think of a toilet tank), the fuel is flowing out through the vent hose and into the intake.  When that float valve Does shut off is when you'll feel the bulb get firm.

Phil

__________________
Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
PhilH12

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Posts: 2,831
Reply with quote  #15 
PS - If it's that VST float valve, you're running Rich.  More noticeable at lower rpm's, and yes would run pretty badly.  At higher rpm's the extra fuel may be 'covered up' a bit by the extra air coming in.  Plugs may look pretty black and fluffy.  Black is OK, but fluffy isn't.

Also, there should be a definite difference in Feel when priming the bulb - is it fuel or just air going through.  Bulb held vertical with arrow up?

Have you done the Lift Pump vacuum or Clear Hose Tests as a start?  The Clear Hose is pretty easy - an extra barbed fitting, and a foot of 3/8" ID clear tubing, just before the fuel line enters the engine.  Watch for big air bubbles going through.

Phil

__________________
Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
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