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steelhead

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Reply with quote  #16 

Have your dealer check the slower rpms and high rpms temperature profiles in the EMM.  Motor/s may be running too cold due to thermostat or PRV problems

Check the motor temperatures at your low cruise rpms that have been causing the carbon fouling, need to be above 150d F, ideal is above 160d F while running low speed.  Sticking open thermostat or PRV will cause cold run temperatures, incomplete combustion and high carbon buildup.

Using E. Carbon Guard during the winter cold months helps to reduce cold weather carbon buildup.

There is no programming changes in the G2 motors EMM for different oiling rates and oil type used.  Motor will use the same amount running XD100 or TC-W3 rated lubes.  Change from the old G1 motors.  BRP/Evinrude strongly recommends using the XD100 in the G2 due to the high HP/torque output across the rpms range.

fisheye

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Reply with quote  #17 
My dealer told me that there was an EMM update specifically to address the fouling on the G2 300's.  They did not say the amount of oil used will change, only that certain areas of the motors will get more or less oil per the programing.  XD100 and XD50 can be used as desired with XD100 preferred.  I will ask them to check the temps though.
speckman1

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Reply with quote  #18 
BRP came out a while back with a map for engines that run low RPM the same happened to me. No more problems.
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TomF66

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Reply with quote  #19 
I have about 350 hours on my G2 300.  This problem with fouled plugs seems to come back. 

After about 80-100ish hours or so the engine is having plug trouble.  Typically after a long period of trolling 1000 RPM ish - when you go WOT its fine for a while, they suddely the RPM drops and its keeps going up and down.  

The dealer has replaced the plugs - about once each season - when this happens and then everything works well for a while again.  Last year i got the brand new IA plugs as well - but now after another 80 hours the problem is there again.

Seems strange for an engine thats supposed to have a 5-year plug replacement regime. 

As long as the warranty is there its no cost -just hazzle .. but what happens when 5 years are over ?   

Should we be expecting an annual plugreplacement ?  or regular cleaning or fuel additives ?

Would it "fix" itself if I ran it at WOT for a longer period despite the engine is struggling with getting more than 4800-4900 when this problem occurs ? 

Been using  only XD100.

steelhead

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Reply with quote  #20 

Run E. Carbon Guard in the fuel tank every trip where slow rpms trolling is involved.
The G1s have the same problem with plug carbon buildup slow trolling, especially in cold waters below 70d F.  I've been using Chevron Techron Concentrate in mine, easier to get.  Works as well as the CG. 
Using no ethanol gasoline helps, higher burn temperature, burns off the carbon.

Running higher than 87 octane gas can also exacerbate the problem,  many of the chemicals used to raise octane levels also cause cooler combustion temperatures.

Been a 2 stroke outboard problem since the days of Ole Evinrude, the Flying Norwegian.

We used to have to have 2 sets of plugs for the old carb'd motors that heavily carboned up.  One hot set of plugs for trolling days and one colder set for play days.  Long before Carbon Guard or any good cleaners carbon removal products.

Want to see real carbon gasoline deposits buildup, look in the intake runners and intake valve tulips backside on DI 4 stroke motors.  BMW and Mercedes are the worst. $2000 walnut shell blasting every 20k miles and NOT covered by warranty.

Switching gasoline supplier with different refinery and base crude used can help.  We get some real slop gasoline here on the West coast from the heavy high sulfur high benzene Alaska N. slope crude. 

At least these don't thin down the crankcase oil with unburned gasoline running by the rings and into the crankcase like the 4 pokers.  Thin gasoline contaminated oil =s burned out crank and rod bushing.  Don't ask me how I know.

FinestKind

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Reply with quote  #21 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomF66
I have about 350 hours on my G2 300.  This problem with fouled plugs seems to come back. 

After about 80-100ish hours or so the engine is having plug trouble.  Typically after a long period of trolling 1000 RPM ish - when you go WOT its fine for a while, they suddely the RPM drops and its keeps going up and down.  

The dealer has replaced the plugs - about once each season - when this happens and then everything works well for a while again.  Last year i got the brand new IA plugs as well - but now after another 80 hours the problem is there again.

Seems strange for an engine thats supposed to have a 5-year plug replacement regime. 

As long as the warranty is there its no cost -just hazzle .. but what happens when 5 years are over ?   

Should we be expecting an annual plugreplacement ?  or regular cleaning or fuel additives ?

Would it "fix" itself if I ran it at WOT for a longer period despite the engine is struggling with getting more than 4800-4900 when this problem occurs ? 

Been using  only XD100.



Where conditions allow, I run my motors for a few minutes at Wide Open Throttle EVERY TIME after a trip with extended trolling time.  I figure it can't hurt the motors but it probably WILL help "blow out" some of the carbon built up while running low RPM.   

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Len
Finest Kind
1988 Grady White Trophy Pro
Hermco Fiberglass Floatation Bracket
Twin 2017 200 HP Etec G2's
Model C200PX / serial 05489354 and C200PXC / 05484064
steelhead

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Reply with quote  #22 
Might also try running motor/s at rpms up to point where boat almost comes up on plane for 10>15 minutes.
Most loading on motor and highest combustion chamber/plug temperatures.
TomF66

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Reply with quote  #23 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FinestKind


Where conditions allow, I run my motors for a few minutes at Wide Open Throttle EVERY TIME after a trip with extended trolling time.  I figure it can't hurt the motors but it probably WILL help "blow out" some of the carbon built up while running low RPM.   


What puzzles me is that is usually when i have this situation it is when i run on WOT or close to it after a period of trolling. Thats when it looses rpm. Then i reduce the throttle, but maybe i should just keep going for a while?
jzambroski

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Reply with quote  #24 
Heyguy,

Some additional advice and remarks that come to mind as I read between the lines through your carbon build-up problem:

It is CRITICAL FOR PROPER SATISFACTORY OPERATION & MINUMAL CARBON BUILD-UP... that your rig be PROPPED CORRECTLY AND ENGINE MOUNTED AT THE CORRECT HEIGHT ON THE TRANSOM!!! Especially... given the rpm operating range you state you typically use when boating!

Typically, boats are set up by many dealers TOO LOW on the transom!!! And you may possibly have the wrong pitched prop! Which, may be TOO STEEP & LUGGING your engine??? This will cause excessive carbon build-up which will slowly & gradually spell premature DEATH of your motor... when continually operated like you describe!!!

I haven't heard you say that you've effectively... ever run your rig at wide open throttle (WOT)??? Have you ever done this and verified that your rig is actually capable of reaching this EXTREMELY IMPORTANT requirement???

G2 engines typically need to be mounted higher on the transom, compared to others because of their "set back" bracket design. Check this site for information regarding correct engine height and propping to achieve correct & optimal WOT operation!

If this has never been done since you've owned & operated your boat, all you're describing here may be build-up effects due to OVER PROPPING and incorrect installation of your Etec G2 engine!

Pardon me if this is not the case but, I just thought I'd mention this amongst all the other suggestions offered here.

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Lakerider [smile]

Model : E90DSLAFA
Serial Number : 05423492
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