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Grady

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Posts: 7
Reply with quote  #1 
I hope this isn't a redundant question, I could not find the answer with a search.  I keep my boat on a lift over the water all season and flushing with muffs is a major pain, I only do it a couple of times a year when it is on the trailer with the muffs.

How do you use the flushing port on a 2005 200hp Etec HO - do you have to disassemble the peehole assembly?  
PhilH12

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Reply with quote  #2 
Mine is only a 90 hp, but there are 'hose threads' in that tell-tale assembly.  What I do is twist the hose counter-clockwise 2 or 3 turns, then screw it into the fitting.  Actually, I prefer to use the muffs for a more 'natural' water flow, although it is also fine to use the 'hose only' method.

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
Grady

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Reply with quote  #3 
Thanks Phil, I believe there are threads on mine as well.  I am not with my boat right now, does the hose fit over the piece where the water flows out?

PhilH12

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Reply with quote  #4 
I'm not at my boat either, but there are 2 holes on my 90 hp assembly - one threaded and one not.  Can't go wrong there, I don't think.

BTW:  Do Not rev the engine, unless it's in the water - Never on the hose.  That's if you run it while flushing, and that's not required, to my knowledge.

Phil



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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
MoneyPit

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Posts: 174
Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilH12
I'm not at my boat either, but there are 2 holes on my 90 hp assembly - one threaded and one not.  Can't go wrong there, I don't think.

BTW:  Do Not rev the engine, unless it's in the water - Never on the hose.  That's if you run it while flushing, and that's not required, to my knowledge.

Phil




Yes, unscrew and remove the peehole assembly then screw your water hose in there.

Word of caution. ....if you don't run the engine while flushing, water will NOT flow through your thermostats or EMM. I found that out the hard way. I'll post my video of it if I find it.

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2011 Angler Grande Bay with 2011 225 E225DPXIID 05296129
MoneyPit

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Posts: 174
Reply with quote  #6 
Here you go. ...proof that flushing can be done without motor running....but you're not accomplishing much, if anything.


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2011 Angler Grande Bay with 2011 225 E225DPXIID 05296129
MoneyPit

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Posts: 174
Reply with quote  #7 
If you have some time to read all of this...long story short, my emm and motor was getting hot. After alot of diagnosing. ..money...and replacing parts, I came to the conclusion my problems were a result of not running the motor while flushing. I had bad salt corrosion as a result. I flushed my motor after every saltwater trip....After 164 hours, this was the result.


http://www.etecownersgroup.com/post/2011-etec-225-emm-getting-hot-code-25-6786692?&trail=15

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2011 Angler Grande Bay with 2011 225 E225DPXIID 05296129
Grady

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Posts: 7
Reply with quote  #8 
Great info MoneyPit - thanks for sharing.  I will be running my engine when using the flush port.  BTW, you are pretty handy!
PhilH12

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Posts: 3,503
Reply with quote  #9 
MP - A long thread, but a true learning experience on Flushing, and using (or not) Gasket Sealing Compound for me!  Thanks!

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
steelhead

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Posts: 4,097
Reply with quote  #10 

MP,
very informational video on the limitations of motor not running flushing via the back flushing port.  Shocked that there is NO water flow through the EMM cooling tube and VST with motor off.

I've changed my moored back port flushing technique in salt water.  Let motor drain vertical for 5>10 minutes while washing down boat.  Tilt motor full up and flopped over to side so I can easily reach the flushing port with 6 ft section of hose that is then connected to Salt-A-Way inline flushing container which connects to dock fresh water hose.  Puts far less strain on the motor flushing port.  Lower motor so the M2 nose cone water pickup is just above water surface.  Turn on hose and start flush procedure.  Start motor and proceed with the SaltAWay flushing steps.  Finish flush.  Turn motor off.  Leave motor with nosecone pickup still out of marina saltwater.

Still use the SaltAway and either the same flush port or a lower unit dual feed flush muff with a boat launch or home flush.

My last thermostat change showed zero new corrosion in the thermostat block seals seats or visible cooling system interior.  I was lucky the prior owner's lack of correct flushing had not damaged the thermostat block seal seats beyond repair.
 
I use the SaltAway on the trailer disc brakes flush system, the galvanized trailer, the boat and motor exteriors and my boat launch truck.  Solves the problems of dried corrosion salt deposit buildup and rust especially in narrow gap areas.

BRP must test and approve the use of salt removal chemicals, they list SaltAWay on their website and sell it.
One more tool in our battle with salt water corrosion.  I remember well the corrosion problems of outboards and cast iron inboard and I/O blocks/riser exhausts in the 50s and 60s salt water fishing.  Lucky to get 5 years out of an outboard or cast iron block in salt water then, hated to look under the cowling or engine deck cover and see all the rust.

http://shop.evinrude.com/product/249991/776527/_/Salt-Away

willtodd1Two

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Posts: 45
Reply with quote  #11 
I have a new E-90 DPXAFD, s.n. 5493595. I'm always flushing in a salt water slip with the motor off and in the vertical position therefore submergered in salt water. I use the flush port with my water pressure regulated to 21 p.s.i. I flush for 10 to 15 minutes. Next I wait 10 minutes to drain the powerhead and then raise up and completely rinse the outside , prop hub , intakes etc. Steelhead's new method ( thanks Money Pit ) makes sense but with all I've read on the web sites I'd be afraid to run and flush and drain in a semi up position. Perhaps it depends on the angle and therefore the height of your transom etc. ? I've read on the sites that the different models of E-TECs have different internal plumbing ?

Do Money Pit's observations apply to my little 90 ?  Should I switch to Steelheads new method ?

Thanks everyone,
Todd

MoneyPit

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Posts: 174
Reply with quote  #12 
I don't have any experience flushing while the boat is in the water. If I HAD to do it...I would either try Steelhead's method or if that wouldn't work. ...get a large plastic "waterproof" trashcan or similar...lower prop into can to close to vertical. ...trashcan top would be above water line and empty of saltwater. Then run water through flush port with engine running.

Hopefully that makes sense...and it's only a suggestion from someone that's never done it....so take that for what it's worth!

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2011 Angler Grande Bay with 2011 225 E225DPXIID 05296129
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