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smalazina

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Posts: 42
Reply with quote  #1 
Hi,

My Etec 60 has just started to bubble the exhaust up from under the water on idle. The exahust port above the Water Pump Indicator does not seem to blow out the gasses as it used to.
There are no other symptoms or warnings and she seems to run just fine otherwise. I have recently fitted a hydrus prop.
Any ideas?

Joanna

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Boat: Norman 23ft cabin cruiser for canal/river/coastal 1975. Motor: E-tec 60 Saltwater Edition E60DSLSCS SN 05231376 03/2008
seahorse

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Reply with quote  #2 

Was the idle relief muffler replaced at the last engine servicing ?


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LIQUIDNIRVANA

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Reply with quote  #3 
Quote:
Originally Posted by seahorse

Was the idle relief muffler replaced at the last engine servicing ?


The idle relief is just below the power head at the rear and is in the centre section. It is designed to allow exhaust to come out at idle in neutral. If the muffler is blocked then the exhaust has to push it way to the bottom near the prop. Sometimes this causes the motor stall if it is idling really slowly with the exhaust bubbling up. Is it stalling?  This sounds like what is happening.

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francomicheletti

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Posts: 48
Reply with quote  #4 
Hi Joanna.
Depeding on models E60.
Latest has a filter under oil tank,very easy to remove and clean.
If clogged the gasses are forced to exit through lower exhaust near propeller.

Ceers.
Franco
smalazina

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Posts: 42
Reply with quote  #5 
Thank you for your speedy replies.
Seahorse: The motor is only 3 years old and has done about 85 hours, so it has not had a full service yet. But I guess it’s about due for one. I hope the idle relief muffler is easy to replace! I have owned it since June last year and I bought it used from an Evinrude dealer who assured me that it had been checked out after it had been traded in.
LIQUIDNIRVANA: Nice handle! The motor has not stalled at all. It seems from what you are saying that this route of escape for the gasses is blocked. I wonder what could be blocking it. I put a pencil into the exhaust port and it came out with a black sticky residue, which I guess is a mixture of carbon soot and unburnt oil, an accumulation of which I suppose is what is causing the blockage. It has just occurred to me that this accumulation could be as a result of low usage and/or over-winterization?
Francomicheletti: The motor is 2008. I hope it is a simple job to fix like cleaning a filter. The motor runs perfectly otherwise.

I will be putting the boat up on land soon to do some work on her, so I hope it is a fairly simple job to service the motor myself. I am quite capable of doing most conventional mechanics, though I may need the Evinrude people to do some things that require technical or electronics.


Joanna

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Boat: Norman 23ft cabin cruiser for canal/river/coastal 1975. Motor: E-tec 60 Saltwater Edition E60DSLSCS SN 05231376 03/2008
francomicheletti

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Posts: 48
Reply with quote  #6 
Just have to lose the bolts for the oil resevoir and there is a plate bolted under it,move cover gently as there is a gasket and remove the spongy filter,
Clean and refix.
You have to remove the lower cover,
Ceers
smalazina

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Posts: 42
Reply with quote  #7 
What if I don't replace the pesky muffler foam as it will just get clogged again. I don't see the point of having this part. Is it to conform to the California emissions perhaps, or does it actually silence the motor???
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Boat: Norman 23ft cabin cruiser for canal/river/coastal 1975. Motor: E-tec 60 Saltwater Edition E60DSLSCS SN 05231376 03/2008
Oskar26M

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #8 
Hi
I am having a similar problem with the exhaust pressure relief filter element clogging up causing the exhaust to bubble up from under water at idle. 
The ETec 60 motor was purchased and installed on a MacGregor 26M yatch in December 2006 (SN 5166487). The motor had a major service in July 2009 and a minor service in August 2010.  A problem first occurred in October 2010 when the motor began running rough at idle. No faults were found but the plugs were found to be worn and were replaced with QC12PEPB and a 'carbon tuner' was run through the engine.  In January 2011 the motor began stalling at idle and when going into reverse which created a rather scary situation since it happened while approaching a dock/ramp. Investigation revealed the bubbling issue described above and the exhaust pressure relief filter element was found to be heavily carbonised. The filter element was replaced.  The boat had little use since then, but the problem re-occurred this month with the filter heavily clogged with carbon deposits once again.

Because it is fitted to a yacht, the motor is primarily used for for launching and retrieval and for cruising at hull speed (around 6-8 knots or 2000-3000 rpm).  It is rarely run at WOT.

The question is, can the engine be tuned to reduced the carbonising effect at low revs or is there something else I can do reduce the frequency of this recurring?

Huey

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Reply with quote  #9 

Hi, there is no "tuning" that can be done but an engine that is overpropped, running cold and using inferior oil will have this problem earlier than expected. It is a replacement part and if getting clogged up at this sort of hours check the above.

Cheers,

Huey.

Oskar26M

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #10 
Thanks for the quick response Huey.  I was hoping that some form of engine tuning might have been figured out since I last had this problem.

I have always used Evinrude's XD 100 oil, and the most recent check shows that engine temperature is in the correct range (approx 160F) so it appears that the prop might be the problem.

I'll take your advice and change to a smaller prop - someone here suggested a 9" Hydrus the last time I posted on this topic - and follow the dealer's advice regarding fuel additives.  I'm also resigned to having to book the motor in for more frequent servicing in the future.
Huey

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Reply with quote  #11 
Hi, not much to be "figured" out because if the engine is running as designed and propped correctly so she reaches her ideal WOT RPM the filter lasts. Just becuase it shows it has been in the correct range it does not mean that right this minute it is not running cold due to the thermo being stuck open.

Cheers,

Huey.
BackCountryBob

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Posts: 29
Reply with quote  #12 
Hi OskarM26, I had a 9 x 14 Hydrus on my 26X but went to the BRP 9 X 14 alum as it gave me 200 RPM more than the Hydrus.  I do alot of lake trolling but always run WFO for about 20 mins to blow out any junk which might accumulate.

My e-tec 60 only puts out 40hp at 8,150' altitude with max rpm of 5,000 empty ballast.  I'd like to get 5,500 but my prop guy can't do anything to help the 9 pitch spin faster.

bscott
Harri_Finland_ETEC50

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Posts: 2
Reply with quote  #13 
Thank you very much for your topic!
Problem solved, too!

Reliability is the key word when sailing 10nm from coast in Finnish Sea of Archipelago between 50 000 islands and rocks.
Engine rpms are most of the time between 1600-3000 due to waves and winds.

MAYBE the best solution would be to remove the valve??

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archipelago_Sea

Harri
Silverfox

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Posts: 110
Reply with quote  #14 
I've always thought about something like that also. Is the foam necessary to do anything other than quieting the noise of exiting exhaust from the exhaust port? The foam just looks like a piece of tapered air conditioning foam filter. Will it hurt anything if you remove it and do not replace it?
smalazina

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Posts: 42
Reply with quote  #15 
I have had this issue also. (refer to my previous posts on this topic). I have simply removed the silly foam, which clogs up all the time, and I have not replaced it, and there is no bubbling up and the engine runs sweetly and never stalls, although it is slightly noisier at idle as a result, the engine has been very reliable. (Apart from the EMM not charging the battery, but that is a whole 'nother story, as they say)
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Boat: Norman 23ft cabin cruiser for canal/river/coastal 1975. Motor: E-tec 60 Saltwater Edition E60DSLSCS SN 05231376 03/2008
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