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noutec

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Hi all, my dad and I were looking to upgrade the current engine to something with more hp. Luckily we found out that E-TEC's were the best possible option for fun on the water. We found a good deal in a used 225 hp E-TEC (year 2012 DE225CXINS). However, it was already missing the engine servo module (ESM), and the boat dealer gave us a used ESM which came probably from a 300 hp engine (P/N 587108).

We hooked it up with a completely new BRP Icon rigging kit. At first both throttle and shift input were responding to the ICON control (engine was not started). The first attempts to crank the engine, only gave us 1-2 seconds of cranking. After checking all wiring and resetting the Icon control, the ignition button was working and we could crank the engine. As we wanted to check compression we proceeded to start the engine (without spark plugs). Up to the 5th cylinder everything was going okay (we were getting good readings from each cylinder at around 85 psi). By the 6th cylinder, the engine starting button wouldn't react and the neutral button LED started flashing continuously. After this the engine did not start again. Using the diagnostics software was not a possibility at this point since the EMM was not getting any power with key switch turned on. We checked the rigging connections, motor harness and all fuses which turned out to be ok. Then we proceeded to power the EMM directly. After doing this no active errors were found through the diagnostics software (besides code 111 which was induced because the ESM was bypassed). One step further, we cranked the engine directly through the solenoid and the engine started without any problem and was running in idle very smooth. Reading the diagnostics with the engine still running only indicated that it was operating in S.A.F.E mode (because of the missing connection with the ESM, code 111). Now every time we turn the key switch on, the neutral button LED starts flashing.

We suspect the ESM is waiting for a signal from the shift servo; shift in neutral? (lower gearcase is not connected). Or the ESM has other electronical malfunctions? Does someone know if you need to set up the ESM using diagnostics software or somehow program the EMM when you replace an ESM?

Hope someone can help (sorry for the long intro but I thought it could help)

 

 

jimh

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Reply with quote  #2 
Be sure that the version of EV-Diagnostic software in use is appropriate for the ICON EST system.

Lack of communication on the ESM network could be due to an error in the network cables and hubs. Carefully check that wiring, and also check all fuses associated with the ICON EST controls and the ESM Module.

When something based on electricity works momentarily then stops, the cause may be a fuse that is taking a minute or two to open because the current is just slightly over the fuse rating.


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olypopper

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Reply with quote  #3 
You will most likely need your dealer to troubleshoot this problem as Icon EST controls require the use of Icon Datalink Diagnostic program to make adjustments and troubleshoot.  
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mead

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Reply with quote  #4 
Within this system it is very easy to misconnect the main wire harness connector The one with 2 yellow ends, especially at the 6 port connector. Usually you will find one of the pins slightly bent over and not making a connection. Take your time and pull these apart and visually inspect each one. You have approximately 6 connections to inspect.  Control to extension. Extension to 6 port junction. 6 port junction to main back bone with yellow ends. Main backbone to rear 6 port junction, 6 port junction extension to emm.
noutec

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Reply with quote  #5 

Thanks everybody for your replies and good advice.
Since the rigging kit was new out of the box, we hooked it up and had no issues at all with the throttle and shift functioning.
The problem started after cranking the engine a couple of times in a row for pressure measurements in the cylinder heads.
The problem of the blinking Neutral LED has started then, and is still the case. The strange thing is that the EMM won't get any power when I turn the key switch on.
I wanted to try and find out if it's the ESM or the new control kits and cables that has a malfunction.
So in the last days I proceeded to carefully check all the cables and the rigging kit as you suggested. All cables and pins are measured and inspected and are ok.
Therefore I can rule out any bad pins and/or bad cables.
I double checked the wiring diagram from the rigging kit and the ESM to make sure that they are all connected correctly. In addition we measured all the cables connecting to the ESM and engine harness.
Yesterday I connected it all again, and it is still showing the exact same issue(s) as before; EMM not getting any power while key switch is on, and blinking Neutral LED.
I checked with the multimeter on the data pins of the connector, and 3 seconds after turning on the key switch, some low potential (on the multimeter) appears and the neutral LED starts blinking again.
With the workaround powering up the EMM directly (with fuse), and bridging the solenoid starts the engine immediately. Reading the diagnostics indicates fault 111 and engine goes into S.A.F.E mode.
Does anyone know how I can rule out it's not the remote control or it's not the ESM?
If I replace the ESM with another unit does it need any programming or setup (besides swapping the identity plug)?


olypopper

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Reply with quote  #6 
Did your throttle plates transition to WOT when this failure occurred?  
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noutec

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Reply with quote  #7 
I connected the controls to the ESM and with the key switch on (engine not running), I tested the controls. The remote was able to shift gears and throttle movement was in sync with the servo, so at WOT the plates were fully open, and closed again when the remote was in neutral. So the new rigging kit seemed to work ok in the beginning. Then with the remote in neutral and spark plugs removed, I started to crank the engine a couple of times, using the engine on button. This went ok for a couple of times cranking, when suddenly the neutral LED started to flash and the engine and EMM would not react to the key switch (no connection possible because it received no power). So when this failure occured the remote was in neutral and the throttle plates were already fully closed.

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