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PhilH12

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Posts: 3,504
Reply with quote  #16 
++ to steelhead.  No expert here, but if it's actually 'bearings', etc. I'd suspect an XD-100 oil setting in the EMM, and running a different oil for a while?  I'd suspect the oil and settings first, but that's over a period of time.  They do say that you can run 'emergency' on a different oil for a bit, but who knows what happened before you got it?

I found mine set to XD-100, and there's a 1/4 jug of TCW3 under the seat when I first got the boat/motor "fully serviced and ready to Go!".  Whew!  Caught that, as I was changing to XD-100 anyway.

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
Huey

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Posts: 13,860
Reply with quote  #17 
That engine does not sound healthy-it could be major or minor so I would not run it anymore till you find the problem and fix it. Doing a drop test will isolate which cylinder is making the noise and a "follow thru" test on the piston can point to big end or little end problems. Also an easy 1/2 job t remove the cylinder head and see what the insides look like.
Grimmsweeper

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Posts: 68
Reply with quote  #18 
Thank you for the suggestions,
A little bit out of my skill range but I'll research first to limit the mistakes, or realize it's too difficult and take it to the professionals.
Huey

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Posts: 13,860
Reply with quote  #19 
If you do not have a genuine manual and the Ev diag that should be your first move so contact Joe at BB to get these if you are going to tackle it yourself. The I-3 is an easy platform to work on.
Grimmsweeper

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Posts: 68
Reply with quote  #20 
I took my 75 hp E tech in after trying everything, replacing fuel, cleaning filters, changing spartplugs, everything my skill level would allow. Still couldn't get rid of that knock. I thought it was compression and the mechanic proved it. #1 125, #2 125, #3 90. Out of my league. How much usually for a repair if it's just rings...or worse?

Thanks
Art
Huey

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Posts: 13,860
Reply with quote  #21 
Impossible to say without seeing the engine, so why not remove the cylinder head and post a picture of what no.3 looks like and then we can make a guesstimate. What does the mechanic say it will cost because parts and labour varying worldwide.
Grimmsweeper

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Posts: 68
Reply with quote  #22 
I don't have the skills to remove the cylinder head. The mechanic didn't say how much because he said it would be too much to fix it. He didn't charge me for the analysis. I'm trying to get a cost range to see if it's worth fixing before I find a E-Tec certified mechanic.
alana

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Posts: 546
Reply with quote  #23 
Nows the time to learn , if the motor is that far gone how much more damage can you do. Get a manual, or ask on here, buy a set of spanners and get dug in
Grimmsweeper

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Posts: 68
Reply with quote  #24 
Alana,
You have a point there. I did purchase the software because the local dealer returned my motor before un-repaired. I used it to find the problem, took the motor to a trusted mechanic who verified the problem. (Back in the day) I built a 1987 Buick Grand National motor from bare block with only the help of a stranger who guided me over the phone and I never raised a wrench prior to that. Your suggestion may be encouraging enough! What's the worse that can happen? I monkey it all up, take it off and put on another. Wonder if this forum will talk me through it step by step?
Thanks,
Art
alana

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Posts: 546
Reply with quote  #25 
This forum is a fantastic mine of information, and it seems to be given with good grace, none of the ,, if you can't do so and so you must be stupid,, comments you get on other forums. A clean area where parts can be labelled and stored and take your time. Sometimes it's the labour costs that mounts up, if you can do most of that, the motor may be saved to run again
Grimmsweeper

Registered:
Posts: 68
Reply with quote  #26 
This forum has helped me in the past and I'm grateful for that!
Thanks,
Art
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