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jbrinch88

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Reply with quote  #16 
I had the same issue but not as bad. Check your fuel pressure. Mine was about 10-15psi above spec. Put in a new vst assembly problem solved.

2004etec90

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Reply with quote  #17 
You've got to check fuel pressures from lift pump through to the high pressure side.

Is your lift pump pulling too much vacuum? And go from there forward. I'll assume you don't have a service manual and diagnostics software.

Without a service manual, the software, and checking the basics (fuel pressures, compression, spark) you are (and I say this from experience) wasting your time.

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2005 90hp I3 - Model E 90 DP L SO R - Serial 05083190 - 1972 18ft Starcraft Holiday
Snoken

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Reply with quote  #18 
I have uploaded a new video of the first start of the day with the top cover off and the motor in a raised position. 



This time it took 4 attempts for it to idle and you can hear its not a stable idle at first.

I have  attached some photos of the engine position in regards to the keel and a snap of WOT. The photos under the water is at lowest trim.

I do have the Service / Repair Manual (406 pages) and have just ordered the EV diag sw of brpdiagnostics. Once I've received this and checked fuel pressures, temps etc I will post the results.

I have bought some fuel additive to hopefully get rid of some carbon buildup on the injectors, Carlube Petrol Injector Cleaner, not sure if it will have any effect but can't hurt.



Motor undervann Høyre.jpg  Motor undervann venstre.jpg   
WOT Still.jpg


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Ric232

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Reply with quote  #19 
On the plus side, your motor height while running looks really good.
Snoken

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Reply with quote  #20 

Hey again guys,

It's been quite a while since my last update.
I have acquired a complete maintenance manual and various test equipment in addition to the EV Diag software. 
I could not find any faults or warnings using the EV diagnostics software. However if i change the fuel delivery to "rich" the engine fires up and stays running on the first start of the day. 

I have tested each of the temp sensors and they all show the correct resistance. I have checked the fuel pressure and it was not exactly to spec, but fairly close to the correct pressure.

These findings made me think that the HP fuel pump (on the VST assembly) was faulty. Therefore when I was on my vacation in the US i picked up a brand new VST assembly in San Diego. The day after I came back home i replaced the old one with new and fired it up, to my surprise and disappointment I experience the same hard start issue. 

I thought it might be since I drained some of fuel from the system so I wanted to give it a go the next day as well. And I was gutted when it took the engine 7-8 starts to run on idle.

I'm at a loss now and would really like for you guys to bring me some much needed advise.

Thanks ! 


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E200DHXSUC / 5177278
olypopper

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Reply with quote  #21 
The results of your test show that the engine is not receiving the correct air/fuel ratio at startup.  This is usually attributed to dirty injectors or severe carbon buildup on the deflector pins and injector tips.  It could also mean a single bad injector or possibly more than one.  
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steelhead

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Reply with quote  #22 
Best to send the injectors to one of the E-TEC injector clean/testing shops.  Several here in US, listed on site.

Try pulling injectors and soaking nozzle tips in Evinrude Fuel System Cleaner or Yamaha Ring Free.  Ring Free is probably available in Norge, expensive but works.  Also run in the gas.
Clean injector mounting holes into cylinders.  Deflector pins can be removed and cleaned.

Your motor spends most of its time idling and slow rpms trolling.  Monitor the motor temperatures closely while trolling.  Want above 65d C while trolling on warm motor.  Make sure the thermostats are not leaking and the base seals on them are not rolled or turned over, they will leak cold water by.  There are double lip seals for the thermostat bases that seal much better keeping low rpms motor temperatures up reducing carbon buildup, search forum, recommended by Seahorse and Oly.  I put the double lip thermostat seals on my thermostats, much better low rpms motor temperature.
PRV can also be leaking causing low motor temperatures.

I would do a decarbon in the motor internals.  Start  with spraying Evinrude Engine Tuner in through throttle bodies of warmed up motor.  Turn off and let motor set for several hours.  Add shock triple dose of Evinrude Fuel System cleaner, Evinrude Carbon Guard or Ring Free to 3 gallon portable tank.  Take it out and run hard until 3 gallons burned.  Will likely see lots of emulsified carbon pour out of prop hub and muffler and burning carbon smell.

Muffler may also be plugged, 10 years and heavy carbon buildup in motor.

Black with no thick heavy carbon deposits is the normal color of running E-TEC spark plug center insulators after a couple hours.
Snoken

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Reply with quote  #23 
Thanks for your replies.

Unfortunately there is to my knowledge no shops in my area that provides injector cleaning. My option is then to do it myself or change all injectors. I'm not interested in paying >3.000$ for new injectors I'll try to clean them myself.

So then my question is, what equipment do i need? Do I need anything other than 6 of injector seal kits (#5007017) ? I'm currently offshore so don't have the manual available.

Once again, appreciate your input. 

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E200DHXSUC / 5177278
muskiemouth

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Reply with quote  #24 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoken
Thanks for your replies.

Unfortunately there is to my knowledge no shops in my area that provides injector cleaning. My option is then to do it myself or change all injectors. I'm not interested in paying >3.000$ for new injectors I'll try to clean them myself.

So then my question is, what equipment do i need? Do I need anything other than 6 of injector seal kits (#5007017) ? I'm currently offshore so don't have the manual available.

Once again, appreciate your input. 


You generally ship the injectors to have them cleaned, then they ship them back. That's pretty much what everyone does.

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2015 Campion Chase 580 BR, 2016 G2 Etec 225 HO (E225LHAG)
Snoken

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Reply with quote  #25 
Quote:
Originally Posted by muskiemouth
You generally ship the injectors to have them cleaned, then they ship them back. That's pretty much what everyone does.


Well, as you might know I'm in Norway and I have not found anyone nearby that provides this service. I've sent an inquiry to Dale in Naples, but are yet to receive a reply. 
So, worst case, if I have to do it myself - what do I need?

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E200DHXSUC / 5177278
muskiemouth

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Reply with quote  #26 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoken


Well, as you might know I'm in Norway and I have not found anyone nearby that provides this service. I've sent an inquiry to Dale in Naples, but are yet to receive a reply. 
So, worst case, if I have to do it myself - what do I need?


No I didn't know you were in Norway. I guess international shipping costs would be unreasonable?

I've never done it myself.(injector cleaning)

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2015 Campion Chase 580 BR, 2016 G2 Etec 225 HO (E225LHAG)
31contender

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Posts: 74
Reply with quote  #27 
I had the same problem but worse on my 2008 250.  Did all the test that was recommended and found several issues but none fixed the cold start issue.  Sent all my injectors to the Injector Man in Naples Florida, replaced the reeds with Carson carbon fiber ones and replace both the feed and return fuel rails and it starts on first click of the key and gets better MPG then before.  The Fuel Injector Man said my injectors were very very dirty.  I also replaced the VST early on in my quest to fix it.  Times two.  I have twin 250's and did everything to both.  
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