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jbrue

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #1 

Hello All,
 I was recently running my 2014 60 ETEC around 4000 RPMs and got a check engine light and the motor went into SAFE mode.  I shut it down and idled back to the ramp. I recently took the engine to my local ETEC authorized service center and had a diagnostic run.  The engine currently has 137 hours run.   The diagnostic came back with a "code 18" with the following information: "found 55 volts circuit above range, voltage exceeds 57 volts, max recorded 65.51 volts, code 18, activate safe mode".  Battery connections were tight and cleaned and a dynamic test was conducted to monitor the 55 volt circuit.  At 2400 RPMs, it exceeded max voltage at 65.51 volts.  At 1,000 RPMs voltage was steady at 55 but as RPMs increased volts increased.  
  The recommendation from the service center was to remove and replace the capacitor.  As they did not have the part in stock, and I tend to tinker, I tested the capacitor for resistance and it was good.  I replaced it anyway with an OEM capacitor and ran the boat today but the check engine light and SAFE mode came on again after a few minutes of running in the 3000-4000 RPM range. Any suggestions on what to check next? After searching posts I'm thinking I need to pull the flywheel and look at that and the stator. The posts I found tend to die out during the troubleshooting stage and don't continue through resolution.  Anyone have any experience resolving this issue beyond changing the capacitor? 

--Jeff 

jbrue

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #2 
As an update to my a Code 18 issue, my failed test run showed the same code 18 error as before.  Looking at the software, there appear to be no historical overheat issues with the EMM and the only stored codes are from my current ongoing code 18 issue.  I was able to remove the flywheel today.  I spent most of yesterday talking nice to it with no luck getting it off. While I was looking at it from below with a flashlight, I did see what looked like a missing magnet.  After finally removing the flywheel, I see that all 12 magnets are still there and fully intact but two of the magnets had shifted, causing three magnets to be directly touching and leaving a large gap to the next magnet in line (pictured).  After inspection, 10 of the 12 magnets are loose. I don't have any notable spray from the transducer while running the boat and I don't see any real indication of leaks under the cowling or what I would consider excessive corrosion on the flywheel.  My assumption is that the original installation of the magnets was flawed as I can't see 10 of 12 bonds failing without a very visible reason.  I have cleaned up the flywheel surface and magnets to create a good sealing surface and plan to use jb weld to put them all securely back in place.  I recognize this may not be the best long term option but I would rather see if this cures my problem and allows my engine to run before spending the money on a new flywheel over a poor glue job.  The resistance on the stator across the three legs seems slightly high at 2.2 ohms but it is consistent across all three legs at the J2 connector.  The service manual says under 2 ohms is acceptable but I have to believe my harbor freight meter isn't as precise as it could be and my lowest resistance test setting is 200 ohms.  I'm hopeful that the magnet misalignment is enough to cause my high voltage issue but if my problem persists I will probably focus on the stator next.  If anyone has any input on the impact on voltage from the magnets sliding I'd appreciate it. 

  magnet shift.jpg  shifted magnets marked.jpg  magnets realigned.jpg   

ElderSparky

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Posts: 985
Reply with quote  #3 
That magnet shift certainly disrupts electrical generation and can result in code 18. I wouldn’t think twice about the 0.2 ohms
jbrue

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #4 
Thanks ElderSparky.  I have my fingers crossed.  Hopefully I can wet test it in the next day or two.  One thing that sucks worse than isolation during COVID-19 is isolating with a broken boat in the garage[frown]
PhilH12

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Posts: 3,491
Reply with quote  #5 
Not really, the thing that sucks worse is having to go to work while you have a broken boat in the garage.  [frown]

Good luck on the testing!  [thumb]

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
jbrue

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #6 
I glued all the magnets firmly back in place and made sure they alternated polarity all around. Everything looks great.  I reinstalled the flywheel and started it on the hose to make sure there were no weird noises and take a look with the diagnostic software before I wet test it.  I have never personally seen the monitor screen on the software with the engine running but noticed at idle (750 RPM) the system voltage jumps quickly to voltages between 55 and 65 volts without steadying anywhere in between.  If I increase the rpms in neutral at all, the system voltage stays steady right at 55 volts.  Without the software I may never see this so I'm not sure if that may possibly be a normal voltage occurrence at idle.  No alarms sounded.  Is it unusual for the system volts to jump around with the engine in neutral and idling? 
jbrue

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #7 
Well I ran the boat tonight for about 5 miles between 4000-5400 RPMs with a lot of idling before and after and had no alarms.  Fingers crossed but the JB Weld may have been the best 6 dollars I've ever spent.  In the end, 11 of my 12 magnets were loose.  All were corrosion free and in very good shape.  I added some epoxy around the 12th magnet to make sure it doesn't let go like the others.  Unfortunately I lost the month of July chasing this issue but the satisfaction of not paying someone to throw parts at a problem may make up for it....a little anyway.  I added a few tools to my box through this ordeal and hopefully I can take a break on this for a while and get back to fishing. Updates to follow if there are any. 
mead

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Posts: 760
Reply with quote  #8 
Re- glueing the magnets has been an accepted practice since the mid eighties when OMC first launched the 35 amp magneto flywheel. They even sell epoxy packets to accomplish the task.  There are several versions of JB weld. Most should be up to the task.
jbrue

Registered:
Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #9 
Update: I took the boat fishing Sunday and ran it all over the bay all day with no issues.  I even had to tow my neighbor in at the end of the day when he ran out of gas with his Yamaha F70.  It made for a fun end to the day with my 10 year old daughter driving the boat pulling them up to the ramp! When I got home I put the muffs on and flushed the motor in the driveway.  I do not rev the engine at all while flushing.  I just start it in neutral and leave it there.  After about 2 minutes the horn came on and the check engine light was lit.  I put the computer back on it and I got the code 18 again.  So now it has shifted from alarming at 4000 rpms to alarming at idle in neutral.  I have a stator voltage output test adapter plug coming as that's about the only other simple test I haven't done.  I pulled the flywheel again and the magnets look perfect and have all stayed right where I put them.  I have the bootstrap tool and the software so I'm assuming I can probably figure out how to do an EMM Recovery. Is that something that would be recommended at this point?  I plan to test the stator further but if that test looks good I will probably move to buying a new stator next as it's the next least expensive part to try? On a good note I got out for a day on the water so that dulls the pain[smile]
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