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Alternative to aux battery charging kit? E-TEC Service & Parts
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56 posts Adeotec 56 posts
Adeotec

I'm installing a house battery and I plan on using the extra charging lead on my engine to charge it.  Do I need to purchase the factory E-Tec aux battery charging kit or can I just use an off the shelf #10 marine battery cable?  The charging kit is $110 and I was thinking it might not be any different than regular marine battery cables. 

I've never seen the kit or tried to use the extra E-Tec lead before.  Is there something in particular about this kit that has an advantage over regular marine batter cables? 

I also haven't priced out regular marine cables but I am just assuming they will be cheaper than the factor E-Tec kit.  I assume I'll probably need about 12' of cable overall. 

 

Thank you
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jimh 7,578 posts
jimh
The auxiliary battery charging kit includes the proper connector to attach to the alternator. Sourcing this connector would be more trouble than the possible savings in cost that might be realized if you tried to fabricate the assembly yourself. I have 50 years of experience in fabricating my own electronics and I bought the BRP kit rather than try to source the odd connector needed. The kit is only about $100 and makes for a proper installation on a $17,000 engine.

Also see my comments in an earlier article I authored on this topic:

http://www.etecownersgroup.com/post?id=4806062&highlight=auxiliary+battery+charging

Even more details about the E-TEC Auxiliary Battery Charging Kit installation and how it should be integrated into the boat electrical system are shown in another article I wrote at

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/002758.html
As of 2024 I am no longer making legacy E-TEC engine EV-Diagnostic cables .
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Adeotec 56 posts
Adeotec
Thanks Jim.  I purchased the E-Tec auxiliary battery charging kit and plan on having it installed today.  I ended up buying it from Dusky Marine.  They are having a 25% off sale on Evinrude products in case anyone else is looking for some parts.

Thank you for response.
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Marintek 31 posts
Marintek
I also bought the kit from Dusky marine, as I see it, it is a dual (positive and negative) #4 AWG gauge cable, which seems a little steep price to pay for the little connector. In retrospect, if I had to do it again I'd cut the connector off the wire and butt-splice AND HEAT SEAL the connection. You should also seal the the empty connector.
Try not to become a man of success but rather try to become a man of value.
A. Einstein
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SQnismo 301 posts
SQnismo
anyone have a picture of this wire and the connector and where it plugs into?
Blazer Bay 2220 PRO / 225 H.O. E-tec
16' Scoutt / 90 E-tec
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jimh 7,578 posts
jimh
Adotec writes:

Quote:
 In retrospect, if I had to do it again I'd cut the connector off the wire and butt-splice AND HEAT SEAL the connection.

I don't agree with this approach. It would leave the auxiliary charging leads permanently connected to the alternator. There are NO other cables or wiring to the E-TEC which are permanently connected. All the wiring and cables can be disconnected if needed. Leaving a long length of heavy-gauge wire permanently connected to the alternator would not be a good practice.

As for pictures, the cable looks like heavy-gauge cable, and it is in a twin-lead or zip-cord style, with two parallel conductors. The battery end terminates in ring terminals, and there is an in-line fuse holder in the positive lead. The engine end has a connector for mating to the existing connector on the E-TEC. The connector is in a gray housing.

The connector mates with an existing connector on the E-TEC. On the 3.3-liter V6 engine the connector is located on the Starboard side of the power head, in the area where other cables are connected. When no auxiliary wiring harness is connected, the connector on the engine mates to another in-line connector which routes the second alternator output in parallel with the first alternator output.
As of 2024 I am no longer making legacy E-TEC engine EV-Diagnostic cables .
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Marintek 31 posts
Marintek
It is your opinion and I respect it Jim, but if there were to be a catastrophic failure (fire) in the electrical charging system due to a major alternator malfunction, whichever of many possibilities there are, having a connector is not going to make any difference in the end result other than having melted plastic. As it is, the circuit is protected by a fuse (which I intend to replace with a breaker matching the operational specs of the fuse). Incidentally, you failed to mention that the ring terminal in the positive lead of the #4 AWG battery connection is a short (6-8") pigtail of red # 8 AWG wire incorporating the fuse as you correctly mention, BUTT SPLICED AND HEAT SEALED by the factory. In reality it all boils down to whether you want to save a good chunk of change or "donate it " (as I did) to BRP. Technically, there's no difference between one approach or the other. If you change your mind or sell the engine, you can always resort to the wire cutter and reinstall the "blessed" connector. (no arguing intention, just respectfully and objectively expressing a point of view).
Try not to become a man of success but rather try to become a man of value.
A. Einstein
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lbstefano 1 post
lbstefano
In Italy the original cable is very expensive 180 euro (200 $). I have a etec 175 dsl and I think to remove the original connector and use copper cable lugs with 6mm2 cable to the service battery with a fuse 50A. 
What do you think about this solution?
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jimh 7,578 posts
jimh
In the field there are exigent circumstances. Whatever works sound good to me.
As of 2024 I am no longer making legacy E-TEC engine EV-Diagnostic cables .
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boscoe 889 posts
boscoe
Install a Yandina combiner between the two batteries and the result offers the same functionality. Cheaper. Simpler. Faster. Better. IMO.
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