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WhiteOwl

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Reply with quote  #16 
I don't have a gauge. At this point I am seeing the need to upgrade my instrumentation. I have just always been a keep it simple guy but nowadays that has it's short comings.  The PRV housing has a number 347239 molded into it. There are no numbers on the removable part. Everything about the PRV appears perfect. The seal in the housing doesn't have a mark on it and seems plyable. The piston seems the same. No sign of wear at all. The valve piston moves freely and smoothly. The spring is has a tension of 8 1/2 lbs. It just seems strange that the thermostats were crudded up and the PRV looks like it came out of the box. I went back through the invoices for service and don't see where the PRV has ever been replaced. It looks like there is an o-ring and a seal. I will replace them but do I need to replace the whole unit?
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Kinston NC
PhilH12

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Reply with quote  #17 
That does appear to be the old PRV discussed in this thread below.  As to why it looks so "new", I'd have to agree that it doesn't appear to be getting much water through it.

The strange part (to me) is why the alarms Only within the pretty narrow rpm range.  Could be that "older, weaker" water pump?  Maybe needs to spin up higher to really get the flow going.

  https://www.etecownersgroup.com/post/Pressure-Relief-Valve-Bulletin-Model-Omission-5997425  

Hope it helps,

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
WhiteOwl

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Reply with quote  #18 
correction: the back of the PRV has a sticker on it with the part number. 5005775G. So it seems this is the old style. I couldn't see the sticker until I loosed the housing from the block.There is no sign of it leaking. I think I am going to replace the assembly with the new style anyway. Partly because of caution and partly because my old one doesn't look like it has ever had water in it. I don't think that is possible but it is so clean it looks strange. All four hoses that go to it are clean and clear. There is no residual water in any of the hoses including the cooling hoses that go to the EMM. It seems like there should be some moisture left somewhere that you could shake out.  I'm also going to do the water pump. Not many hours on the old one but I may as well change it along with everything else. All of it probably needs doing anyway. Unless someone has a different opinion I feel like I will have covered all the mechanical reasons and it will be time to go with the diagnostics if the problem persists.
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Kinston NC
PhilH12

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Reply with quote  #19 
My money's on the water pump to "Win", the new PRV to "Place", and 'possibly' the sensor itself to "Show".  [wink]

Please let us know how it goes!

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
steelhead

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Reply with quote  #20 
While you have the PRV off, backflush with a hose through the block and the heads.  Helps remove any grit/sand/water weeds buildup.

Reason outboard overheats so often show up first in a narrow rpm range of max. hull displacement speed to just on plane speed rpms is that the motor is under maximum work loading pushing the boat through water resistance rather than over the top of the water with an air cushion between the hull and water. Critical the WP is producing max rated water pressure and volume at these rpms and that the PRV is wide open

I would do a complete WP kit with impeller, cup, bottom plate, housing and all seals O rings.  All parts in the WP are subject to wear which decreases WP efficiency.  Follow detailed installation instructions included with kit exactly or pump will have weak output and back in same overheating boat.

Since you have no recent Engine History report showing codes, the simplistic System Check overheat alarm is also set off by EMM overheats.  Clean and clear all the tubing and internal cooling sink passages in the EMM and VST plus the tell tale "pee stream" overflow.

Advanced digital gauges help the owner do his own troubleshooting on these complex motors, reads out EMM error codes.  Also saves wasting money on unneeded expensive parts thrown at a motor in desperation.  ICON PRO can be installed by a owner for less than $400
Gotsea

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Reply with quote  #21 
I would run the motor on a bag or tank if you have one with the PRV removed and see how much water is that WP moving, [idea] and see if it is getting up there
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1994 24 WA Baha
2008 300 HP DPXSC S/N 05228253
15 1/4 X 19 Mirage Plus 47 MPH top end @ 5,750 RPM
32 MPH cruising @ 12.5 g/h
 South Florida
WhiteOwl

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Posts: 37
Reply with quote  #22 
gotsea,  interesting idea, I'll have to wait until the thermostat parts come in but that is certainly something to try. I don't have a bag or tank (I have a large trashcan) will the muffs not be okay?

steelhead,  I have the thermostats out and the PRV open but still hooked up with the hoses. are you suggesting running the water into the thermostat openings and into the PRV hoses? I like the idea but I'm not sure where the water would go. I have done that with an air hose. But I like the idea. 10-4 on the water pump replacement. It will be on the way tomorrow.

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Kinston NC
jimh

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Reply with quote  #23 
WHITE’—Your hypothesis that there is actually no overheat condition in your E-TEC engine and the alarm being signaled by the engine is a false alarm and is caused by a faulty temperature sensor or some other defect in the alarm system can be easily tested. The next time the overheat alarm sounds, remove the engine cowling and measure the temperature of the engine block with an independent temperature sensor. A handheld infrared thermometer should be useful to get a fast reading of temperature on various engine block surfaces.
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Make your own EV-Diagnostics cable.

I am currently sold out of EV-Diagnostic cables. 
Gotsea

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Reply with quote  #24 
WO posted "gotsea,  interesting idea, I'll have to wait until the thermostat parts come in but that is certainly something to try. I don't have a bag or tank (I have a large trashcan) will the muffs not be okay?"

The muff will defeat the purpose of the test since it will force water in the system (45 psi depending the city water supply), the idea is to see how much water the WP is moving by it self.

Cheers  

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1994 24 WA Baha
2008 300 HP DPXSC S/N 05228253
15 1/4 X 19 Mirage Plus 47 MPH top end @ 5,750 RPM
32 MPH cruising @ 12.5 g/h
 South Florida
steelhead

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Reply with quote  #25 

Pyrometer Method
Use a Temperature Gun, P/N 772018, or a digital
pyrometer to accurately determine the outboard’s
operating temperature.
Position infrared beam or pyrometer pickup at top
of cylinder assembly, adjacent to the thermostat
housing and cylinder head. Check temperature on
both sides of powerhead.
Typical temperatures observed at IDLE speed
with pyrometer should be 143°F ± 15°F (62°C ±
8°C)

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Engine Temperature Sensor Test
Use an ohmmeter to measure resistance.

Engine Temperature Sensor Resistance
9000 to 11000 Ω @ 77°F (25°C)



WhiteOwl

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Posts: 37
Reply with quote  #26 
right now, the thermostats are out and the PRV is taken apart. (at this point I don't think I'm going to replace that). I think I'll have the thermostats and parts tomorrow and the water pump parts on friday. Checking with the heat gun is a very good idea to do when I get it back together. Gotsea's suggestion not using the hose muffs makes sense. Last night I just tried to flush out everything with just running a hose everywhere I could think of. It was suggested that any sand or debris would probably be settled in the bottom of the VST but I used an air hose to blow through it and didn't get anything. Put on the muffs and just disconnected hoses one at the time and all seemed to flow well and clean. I got the loaner shop manual last night and it is dated 2006 like the motor. But I'm thinking that it doesn't have the updated info. It says to put gasket sealant on the thermostat caps. All the suggestions on here have been to coat the threads with triple guard. The grease makes more sense, I certainly don't want to make the caps harder to unscrew.
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Kinston NC
PhilH12

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Reply with quote  #27 
Running the hose "everywhere" is exactly right.  The VST is full of Fuel though - hopefully No Debris in there!, and it would be the water running through the Coil inside.

Maybe double check that unless you already did check both the inlet and outlet sides for Flow.

I do believe there was a switch from the gasket sealer to the grease a while ago.  Go with the grease.

Phil

__________________
Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
WhiteOwl

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Posts: 37
Reply with quote  #28 
I replaced the water pump on Sunday. It was the complete kit with housing and plate etc.. I didn't see anything damaged or showing much wear but I think the suggestion that non-use had caused the impeller to take a set was correct. The fins were still somewhat flexible but remained "bent over" after removal from the housing. The tell-tail stream coming out of the motor is MUCH stronger than before. I think the impeller was just too weak to keep up when the motor was in a strain. I'll run it as soon as I can to see if it still alarms but I doubt it will. Then to upgrade to better instrumentation to avoid this in the future. Thanks to all for the advice. I think most on here already know this but Barnacle Bills was very helpful. Well worth the call.
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Kinston NC
Gotsea

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Reply with quote  #29 
Thanks WO for the update 
Cheers


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1994 24 WA Baha
2008 300 HP DPXSC S/N 05228253
15 1/4 X 19 Mirage Plus 47 MPH top end @ 5,750 RPM
32 MPH cruising @ 12.5 g/h
 South Florida
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