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Black_Z28

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Posts: 52
Reply with quote  #91 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nordmann
This should take care of the recurring oil codes.

https://brp--c.documentforce.com/servlet/fileField?id=0BE0c00000095fS


I believe the oil issue was taken care of. They replaced the oil pressure sensor. That helped with The motor dying when putting into gear. But it still has a hiccup/miss while idling in neutral or in gear. Although much less frequent.
Nordmann

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Posts: 1,521
Reply with quote  #92 
With #91 posts, it may have been mentioned before, but it sounds like a plug problem. 
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Nordmann.

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Black_Z28

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Reply with quote  #93 
Plugs have been replaced 3 times since new.

steelhead

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Reply with quote  #94 

That was one sick oiling pump/sensor system, at least 37 oil system fail codes.  Keep monitoring for additional oil codes until you're satisfied the problem is solve.  I'm not so convinced it's only the sensor. At least 1 oil pump motor circuity open code

These codes should have made the EMM put the motor into 1200 rpm SAFE mode or even motor shutdown by the EMM and lockout due to no oil pressure/oil pump motor fault.

Extra oil in these E-TECS at idle would cause idle roughness. 
Never seen an E-TEC dumping in too much oil at idle only.  All rpms, yes
Very failure proof well error checked system that protects the expensive motor well.

Injector spray is in stratified mode with only a small roundish ball of fuel sprayed in at low pressure at the end of the plugs.  Oil would interfere with idle combustion.  EMM does not switch out of stratified mode into homogenous full power full combustion chamber mode until 1500>2500.

NO E-TECS are smooth running in this fueling transition mode.  Most of use just quickly throttle on through or if we have to troll in that rpm range, live with it.

What do you have for monitoring gauges?
System Check with Engine Check light?
Or digital E. gauge that displays EMM fail codes?

Really pays to have a E. digital display gauge or MFD that displays motor info. and EMM codes via NMEA2000 digital signalling. Especially on long vacation trips away from home dealer shop.

Nice thing about the E. Diagnostics, easy to carry on long trips for DIYers, can have parts shipped into Timbuctu but E. techs are scarce in the wilds.

Give the motor 10>20 hours runtime to clean out the extra oil, then see how it runs.

Nordmann

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Posts: 1,521
Reply with quote  #95 
Try this link.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TYi59YF5M6Gz3Pw7Q2mHSkMDMucUdbrI/view?usp=sharing

If an air bubble is on top of sensor, the pump will pulse hard to protect engine, thinking there is no oil at sensor. 

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Nordmann.

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Black_Z28

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Posts: 52
Reply with quote  #96 
Quote:
Originally Posted by steelhead

That was one sick oiling pump/sensor system, at least 37 oil system fail codes.  Keep monitoring for additional oil codes until you're satisfied the problem is solve.  I'm not so convinced it's only the sensor. At least 1 oil pump motor circuity open code

These codes should have made the EMM put the motor into 1200 rpm SAFE mode or even motor shutdown by the EMM and lockout due to no oil pressure/oil pump motor fault.

Extra oil in these E-TECS at idle would cause idle roughness. 
Never seen an E-TEC dumping in too much oil at idle only.  All rpms, yes
Very failure proof well error checked system that protects the expensive motor well.

Injector spray is in stratified mode with only a small roundish ball of fuel sprayed in at low pressure at the end of the plugs.  Oil would interfere with idle combustion.  EMM does not switch out of stratified mode into homogenous full power full combustion chamber mode until 1500>2500.

NO E-TECS are smooth running in this fueling transition mode.  Most of use just quickly throttle on through or if we have to troll in that rpm range, live with it.

What do you have for monitoring gauges?
System Check with Engine Check light?
Or digital E. gauge that displays EMM fail codes?

Really pays to have a E. digital display gauge or MFD that displays motor info. and EMM codes via NMEA2000 digital signalling. Especially on long vacation trips away from home dealer shop.

Nice thing about the E. Diagnostics, easy to carry on long trips for DIYers, can have parts shipped into Timbuctu but E. techs are scarce in the wilds.

Give the motor 10>20 hours runtime to clean out the extra oil, then see how it runs.



I will continue to monitor on a some what regular basis to keep up on error codes.

Unfortunately, and something I didn't know I didn't when I bought the boat, is that I just have a standard Alumacraft guage in the boat. So all it shows it rpms. I have considered a nema setup for my depth finders though.

Kinda funny, I believe I've mentioned it. But I see no issues above idle.

I believe the open circuit was when the sensor actually failed while the dealer was running a data log. This was just a luck thing to happen I believe. He mentioned it failed and dumped a load of oil into the crank.
Black_Z28

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Posts: 52
Reply with quote  #97 
Well, I got the pump today, and installed it.  I don't know if it's the placebo effect or what, but it seems like it idles better.  I'll be running it pretty hard this weekend for a fishing trip, so we'll see how it goes.  

I also pulled the VST filter, the very tip was clogged a bit.  But, I always thought you'd see an issue with the VST at high RPMs.  

I also did a screenshot of the motor while running.  

Any thoughts?  

Thanks again guys.  

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