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willtodd1Two

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Posts: 45
Reply with quote  #1 

My brand new E 90 DPXAFD serial   # 5493595 has been on the water all summer  flushed at dockside,  therefore by flushing port only, and of coarse not running.  Next week I'll pull my rig for the winter and flush with good muffs, in the driveway, with the motor running for the first time. I know how important it is not to have too much water pressure when flushing. When I use the flush port I have a in-line pressure gauge set for 18 P.S.I.....that's not a lot of water coming out.
It seems like a running motor WITH muffs would need more water than 18 P.S.I. produces ( static pressure ) ? 
One gentlemen told me to go ahead and open up my hose bib all the way , we have good water pressure, when on the muffs running and a lot less pressure when using the flushing port ? The Operator's Guide ,if anything, says the oppsite on page 46. The 20 to 40 P.S.I. language appears under "gearcase flushing" and not under "flushing port" ?
 

Do I need to baby it on the muffs or can I crank the  water up some ?

Thanks in advance,
Todd
P.S. Loved my first summer with an E-Tec.

PhilH12

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Posts: 3,491
Reply with quote  #2 
I've seen the same caution, and believe that it applies more to using the flushing port?  What you're trying to prevent is hoses getting blown off of their fittings inside at the tell-tale, etc.

In my "un-expert" opinion, using muffs won't do that, as the excess pressure should just escape around the muffs.  Maybe I don't have the best set, but there's always water leaking out around mine, no matter how I position them.  I position 'em for minimum leakage, and open up the water "fairly well", but maybe not all the way.

NO revving, or In Gear, on a hose, no matter what though!  [wink]  (Although I have done Winterization where the rev's are self-limited by the EMM.)

Phil



__________________
Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
rickmcd53

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Posts: 2,491
Reply with quote  #3 
Phil is correct that the flush muffs will dump any excess pressure, and that pressure on the flush port should be limited. I have always heard that the flush port is designed for flushing without the engine running yet some of the Evinrude training videos show the engine running on the flush port. I have run them for testing both ways and never had one get hot.
PhilH12

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Posts: 3,491
Reply with quote  #4 
My concern on the flush port is the impeller getting enough water from a "different" direction when running.  Things may stay cool up top, but I like to think that the water is going in its normal path, which would be in through the muffs.  I have run the motor on the flush port - "Wow, this is kind'a cool", but don't plan to do it any more when running.  Muffs for me, thanks.

That's just my 'dinosaur/shade tree' opinion though!  [biggrin]

Phil

__________________
Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
GEB

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Posts: 2,172
Reply with quote  #5 
Quote:
Originally Posted by willtodd1Two

My brand new E 90 DPXAFD serial   # 5493595 has been on the water all summer  flushed at dockside,  therefore by flushing port only, and of coarse not running.  Next week I'll pull my rig for the winter and flush with good muffs, in the driveway, with the motor running for the first time. I know how important it is not to have too much water pressure when flushing. When I use the flush port I have a in-line pressure gauge set for 18 P.S.I.....that's not a lot of water coming out.
It seems like a running motor WITH muffs would need more water than 18 P.S.I. produces ( static pressure ) ? 
One gentlemen told me to go ahead and open up my hose bib all the way , we have good water pressure, when on the muffs running and a lot less pressure when using the flushing port ? The Operator's Guide ,if anything, says the oppsite on page 46. The 20 to 40 P.S.I. language appears under "gearcase flushing" and not under "flushing port" ?
 

Do I need to baby it on the muffs or can I crank the  water up some ?

Thanks in advance,
Todd
P.S. Loved my first summer with an E-Tec.



Hi,
You’ll find this post with video very informative. I have always used the flushing port WITHOUT running the motor but after reading this thread (below) I’m now convinced that it’s far better to run the motor when port flushing than not.
http://www.etecownersgroup.com/post/flushing-question-8801061?highlight=port+flushing&pid=1297245417

Cheers
GEB

__________________
Stacer 389 Territory Striker
Model No.E25DTSLAFC
Serial No. 5503333
Mid North Coast
New South Wales
Australia 
The learner will not shear the rams.

willtodd1Two

Registered:
Posts: 45
Reply with quote  #6 
GEB,
I was aware of that vedio and even asked a question about it in that post but got no response. I've heard repeatly on this site and other sites that there are meaningful diferances in the various models of E-Tecs.....the internal plumbing is diferent.The vedio showing how ineffective flushing is while not running refers to a 225, is this also the case with a 90 ? Why does the manufacturer tell us in the Operator's Guide and elsewhere that it's fine to flush while not running ?
All summer long my boat is in the saltwater, in a slip, so for me to flush while running I'd have to raise the motor up until the water pick ups are out of the water like Steelhead mentions in that post. I guess it would depend on your transom height and therefore the angle of things etc. but isn't flushing in the up position a big no no ?
Thanks Phil, Rick and GEB for the conversation !
Todd
 

 
rickmcd53

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Posts: 2,491
Reply with quote  #7 
GEB, in reference to your comment about needing more than 18 psi on the flush muffs. My theory is that you are feeding a cooling system with a 5/8" or larger garden hose into a system that feeds the engine through a tube that is less than 1/2 and runs less than 10 psi at low speed. The water that comes out of the flushing port on the 90 hp engine is the EMM and VST cooling circuit. So when a hose is used in the flushing port the EMM and VST get flushed first then the water goes to the power head. The 225 and larger engines dump block cooling water out of that port too, therefore I believe on those engines the flushing water would divert to the block and not get much thru the EMM. Those engines run a restrictor nozzle in the flush port to prevent the engine from over cooling. If we find a broken water pump impeller we will flush the engine thru the flush port with the lower unit off, this backflushes the water tube that goes into the pump.
GEB

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Posts: 2,172
Reply with quote  #8 
Hi rickmcd53,
Just to clarify, I didn’t make the comment about needing more than 18 psi on the flush muffs.It was willtodd1Two that made that comment. Otherwise your feedback and clarification is much appreciated.
I have an E-TEC 30 and my Operators Guides advises that when port flushing it “it isn’t necessary to run the motor” so I never did. I fish in very shallow water with a sand bottom so after seeing how debris can be left in the water passages I now run the motor when port flushing. I don’t use muffs because I find it hard to get a decent lip seal on my small gearcase also having a small flats boat I don’t have to flush in the water, always flushed on the trailer. Maybe I’m being overprotective of my motor but don’t see that it will do any harm.
Having already blown the port flusher apart and the hose off the EMM I’ve learned the hard way about not using too much mains water pressure. LOL
My reason for posting was to make willtodd1rwo aware of that post with the video which I now understand isn’t applicable to the E-TEC 90.
To willtodd1two, regarding your question about tilting your motor to flush while on the water, I haven’t been able to find a difinitive answer so to be on the safe side I wouldn’t (tilt it to flush) until you’re told by the experts wether or not it’s ok. Perhaps a new post asking that specific question ?
Cheers
GEB

__________________
Stacer 389 Territory Striker
Model No.E25DTSLAFC
Serial No. 5503333
Mid North Coast
New South Wales
Australia 
The learner will not shear the rams.

GEB

Registered:
Posts: 2,172
Reply with quote  #9 
Hi willtood1two,
I forgot to mention, “consult your Operators Guide regarding flushing on muffs.
” I mention this because with my E-TEC 30 it has auxiliary water intake holes that must taped up to prevent the possibility of overheating. Your motor being a 90 will be different so as I said “consult you Operators Guide”
Cheers
GEB

__________________
Stacer 389 Territory Striker
Model No.E25DTSLAFC
Serial No. 5503333
Mid North Coast
New South Wales
Australia 
The learner will not shear the rams.

willtodd1Two

Registered:
Posts: 45
Reply with quote  #10 
Thanks gentlemen, and thanks to Barnacle Bill's for the site !
Todd
P.S. No tape required on the 90.
PhilH12

Registered:
Posts: 3,491
Reply with quote  #11 
My Service Manual does state that my 90 (2007) can be flushed either vertical or tilted.  All of this is when using the flushing port.  Here are a couple of quotes - 

Flushing — Outboard Running
-Place outboard in VERTICAL (DOWN) position in a well ventilated area.

-Keep water inlet pressure between 20 to 40 psi
(140 to 275 kPa).

-Run it at IDLE only.

Flushing — Outboard Not Running
-Outboard can be in VERTICAL (DOWN) or TILTED (UP) position.

-Flush outboard for at least five minutes.

-Position outboard in VERTICAL position (DOWN) long enough to allow the powerhead to drain completely.

Phil


__________________
Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
Grady

Registered:
Posts: 7
Reply with quote  #12 
I have been flushing my 200 etec through the flushing port all summer on my lift with the motor running since viewing the very helpful video mentioned above. When I take it out for the season I will flush it with muffs.
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