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JSRose21

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Reply with quote  #1 

Towards the end of the season in 2016 something broke in our lower unit and it was replaced under warranty. We had the marina store the boat over the winter.  About an hour into our first ride of the season the overheat alarm went off.  It went off a couple more times before we were able to get it back to the marina dock. We are waiting to see what it is but so far the engine report said there was quite a few codes over the total 130 hours we have had - 129 air and water temps and low oil pressure.

Any ideas?

PhilH12

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Reply with quote  #2 
Surely not bashing here, but you need to post Model and Serial Number.  A 'pdf' of the motor report would help too.  Help the Experts help you!

Phil

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20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
olypopper

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Reply with quote  #3 
Yes, please post model and serial as well as an engine history report.  Your dealer should be able to easily provide you with one.  
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JSRose21

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Reply with quote  #4 
Here is the information for our motor.

Model #E135HGLABF Serial #05430759

The dealer was not able to duplicate the issue so we took the boat back to see if it was not a fluke. When we took it back out it only lasted out four minutes before it went off again.  We now have it down to the alarm only goes off between 3500-4000 RPMs or ideal cruising speed.  We tried above and below this area with no issues.  Our boat is a 2015 Sweetwater Pontoon 2286SLC.  We have not made any changes to the boat since we've had it. I do not have an engine report right now. We will need to go back to dealer to get a new one.

Here is a video of gauges when alarm goes off about 2:15 
olypopper

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Reply with quote  #5 
Basic troubleshooting will show what the problem is.  The dealer will need to install a water pressure gauge and use Evinrude diagnostics to watch cylinder head and EMM temp while test running.  Your engine may need a new part or it could possibly need a wider set of water intakes.  The dealer can easily solve this if he has basic skills.

Also, ask your dealer to find out what pound pressure relief valve spring is installed in your engine.  Slower boats need a lighter spring and he may not know this. If he has questions, he can call Tech services for a TST bulletin. 

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JSRose21

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Reply with quote  #6 
The first time they did test as requested by BRP and it was within range. But I will ask them to try again since we've narrowed it down to this RPM range.
JSRose21

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Reply with quote  #7 
Quote:
Originally Posted by olypopper
Basic troubleshooting will show what the problem is.  The dealer will need to install a water pressure gauge and use Evinrude diagnostics to watch cylinder head and EMM temp while test running.  Your engine may need a new part or it could possibly need a wider set of water intakes.  The dealer can easily solve this if he has basic skills.

Also, ask your dealer to find out what pound pressure relief valve spring is installed in your engine.  Slower boats need a lighter spring and he may not know this. If he has questions, he can call Tech services for a TST bulletin. 


Is it possible to get a copy of this TST bulletin?
JSRose21

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Just an update...we switched out the intake screens to the hi-flow version and the overheat alarm still goes off.  

We aren't sure what to do at this time. 
olypopper

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"We aren't sure what to do at this time."

You shouldn't do anything.  Your dealer needs to install a water pressure gauge and watch pressure and temperature profiles while running in that RPM range where the problem occurs. The pressure relief valve spring may be too stiff.  Has your dealer contacted Tech Services for assistance on this matter? This isn't complicated. I fear that your dealer may be incompetent.  Any possibility of taking it to another dealer for proper diagnosis?

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JSRose21

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Reply with quote  #10 
image1.JPG  image2.JPG  image3.JPG  image4.JPG 
Here is the last engine report when we had it looked at.  We will have to drop it off again.  

steelhead

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Reply with quote  #11 
After your dealer completes the tests Oly has pointed out, have the dealer run a clear section of hose in the EMM cooling line to check for excessive aeration of the motor water intakes.
Pontoons are infamous for excessive aeration out the back and outboard cooling problems.  They are mostly used in warm>hot water climates which exacerbates the lack of cooling by aerated water into the motor.

That's an M2 lower unit with the highly efficient and effective nosecone water pickup, no need for the high side water pickups.  Put the originals back on, less drag.

Most toons get beached, chance of sand or grit/mud pickup into the water pump causing damage?  Water pressure test should find this type of failure unless there is debris plugging of passages in the block/heads causing spot overheating.  Grass/debris/weeds can cause the PRV to jam affecting motor cooling.
JSRose21

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Reply with quote  #12 
Will do...I doubt there is anything in the impeller since it was new at the end of last season along with the whole lower unit. The shaft broke so it was covered under warranty. 
JSRose21

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Reply with quote  #13 
Just an update...new pressure relief valve spring changed and larger water intakes installed.  We still have the temp light come on.
PhilH12

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Reply with quote  #14 
Haven't seen anything about 'Water Pressure' or the 'Clear Line to EMM' tests as suggested by experts above?  Doing "a piece at a time" can be slow and frustrating.  [frown]

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
Huey

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Reply with quote  #15 
"We still have the temp light come on" does this also mean the engine is truly getting hot watching it via Ev diag. As mentioned without knowing WP reading etc you could be chasing our tale. A good place to start when any outboard is overheating is the source of the cooling water-the water pump itself-so I would make sure the water pump is in good shape, the impeller seated correctly and the SST cup glued in with the o-ring in correctly and the bled passage in the housing not blocked.
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