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sly_karma

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Posts: 16
Reply with quote  #1 
E130DPXISC #5265686 1156 hours

Fired this up prior to water test, idle seemed a little rough. Did ignition drop tests at idle on earmuffs. The motor keeps running when ignition is cut to #2 cylinder, stalls immediately when any other is dropped. Same result on injector drop tests. Same results when I increase speed to 1200-1500 rpm.

One at a time, I've switched out a spark plug, plug wire and coil. The problem stays on #2. Checked plug wire ground, has near-zero resistance. The coil is receiving 30V with motor off and 54V with motor running. The manual refers to a pulse frequency test on the control circuit, but my meter doesn't have a setting for reading Hz. I'll look into borrowing or purchasing something, but meantime is there anything else to try on the electrical side?

Both spark plugs removed from this cylinder were wet and clean; ie, they appear to be washed with fuel. In static tests I can hear each injector clicking. I'm thinking I could now try switching #2 with #4 injector and see if the problem follows the injector. Is there anything else I should try on the fuel side?

Thanks in advance,

Sly

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E130DPXISC
1980 Lund 19.5 Royale
steelhead

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Reply with quote  #2 

Does #2 compression measure the same as other 3?

 

Before switching, use ricks paper test strip test for injector fuel spray.
Plug sparkplug, use heavy stiff strip of paper, insert into spark plug hole.
Start motor.
Is paper wet with gasoline?

When you pull injector check nozzle tip for thick carbon buildup and spray restriction pattern distortion.  Pattern in these have to be directed and shaped perfectly or gasoline spray may not even be ignited especially at idle in stratified mode with very small fuel spray ball that has to be perfectly positioned around tip of sparkplug

sly_karma

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Posts: 16
Reply with quote  #3 
Compression test last week:
#1: 142
#2: 142
#3: 143
#4: 145

Thanks for the paper test idea, will try. I've never owned an injected outboard before so I'm not sure what blocked or partly blocked looks like. Carbon buildup I can figure. Shop manual will help.

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E130DPXISC
1980 Lund 19.5 Royale
sly_karma

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Posts: 16
Reply with quote  #4 
Switched injectors on cyl 2 and 4. The fault followed the injector. It wasn't visibly dirtier than the good injector. Is there a soaking/cleaning process I can try to get it moving or is this a repair or replace situation now?
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E130DPXISC
1980 Lund 19.5 Royale
Huey

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Reply with quote  #5 
Cleaning injectors has been spoken about on here many times.
PhilH12

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Posts: 3,491
Reply with quote  #6 
Try this video -  https://www.etecownersgroup.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1304226105&postcount=9&forum=136483  

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
steelhead

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Reply with quote  #7 

Measure and record all injector coil resistances per service manual.

Use rick's paper strip injector spray test before and after cleaning on the faulty injector.

Note and post results

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