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toobad4u

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Reply with quote  #1 

Motor has been on the boat for about 5 months now and this past weekend I got a check engine light for the first time on my System check gauge.  I checked all the gauges on the Simrad display, and the issue appeared to be over charging of the battery voltage.   The motor developed a miss, and a surge while this over charging was happening.  The 55v system maintained 55v while the battery voltage jumped up.  
I have been testing props a lot lately, so I have been watching the displays like a hawk and know the voltage has always held steady at 14.4v going to the battery circuit.  When it was overcharging, the voltage was reading 16.5-16.8v.  After about 4-5 minutes, the voltage dropped back to normal, and the motor cleared up and ran fine.   It did it once more about 15 miles later, and we pulled the cowling and checked all connections on the motor and at the battery end, and everything was nice and tight.  After 4-5 minutes, voltage dropped back to normal, and for another 45 miles (rest of the day) I had no more problems.  I'm going to get it hooked up to the laptop this coming weekend hopefully and see if anything appears wrong, but this was such a random and short issue I don't think that will do me any good.  I searched here, google, and the hull truth for charging issues like mine but pretty much all of them are about not charging at all or low voltage, which does not help me with this.
I am open to any and all suggestions on what to look at on this.  

Thank you,
Stephen


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07'  E200DCXSUF    SER # 5196644

2003 Cape Horn 19'  Loaded down.

steelhead

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Reply with quote  #2 
Hex nuts only on battery connectors and motor battery cable connector.
Use stainless steel if salt water motor.

Check the underside of flywheel and stator for rust corrosion, damage or any loose missing magnets.

Check the plug and socket connectors on the EMM for any pin/socket damage

Have the battery bounce load tested for internal cell connection breakage.

Post up charging current, cold start idle, planing rpms, when charging problem occurs.  Have to take computer + Diagnostics software on the water testing.
toobad4u

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #3 

Quote:
Originally Posted by steelhead
Hex nuts only on battery connectors and motor battery cable connector.
Use stainless steel if salt water motor.


Check the underside of flywheel and stator for rust corrosion, damage or any loose missing magnets.

Check the plug and socket connectors on the EMM for any pin/socket damage

Have the battery bounce load tested for internal cell connection breakage.

Post up charging current, cold start idle, planing rpms, when charging problem occurs.  Have to take computer + Diagnostics software on the water testing.

All battery connections are clean, corrosion free, and tight.  Batteries are in boxes under the console away from the elements.  

50 hours of use since motor was installed, and this trip is the first time it has occurred.  Happened he first time less than 5 minutes off the trailer while idling in the marina waiting on buddy to park the truck and get back down the dock.  Second time on the trip it happened while running 4,000 rpm.  The rpm started to fluctuate up and down and the beeper came on so I throttled it down to idle.  Ran 45 miles after it straightened up with no more issues.   We checked all the connections on the EMM and every plug/connector under the cowling while it was happening that second time.  I also switched from battery one to battery two, and also to both on the switch with no change.  
Motor has always charged at 14.4v and still did except for the few minutes it jumped up to 16.5-16.8v.  

Only thing I haven't checked and was kind of dreading was pulling the flywheel.  Only thing about that is when they usually go bad (lose magnets), everyone seems to not charge at all, or low charging voltage.

As far as trying to get it act up with the laptop hooked up will probably be difficult as it happened a total of 6-10 minutes between the two episodes out of a day of running 7 straight hours.  But I'll try next time I take it out.  Probably first of next week.

 

Thanks,
Stephen


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07'  E200DCXSUF    SER # 5196644

2003 Cape Horn 19'  Loaded down.

steelhead

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Reply with quote  #4 
Can feel the FW magnets for missing and corrosion damaged.  Remove all the spark plugs as safety protection for fingers, use bright flashlight.  Best is too remove FW for detailed exam of magnets and stator.

Check closely with magnifier for insulation damage or wire corrosion on the red and red/black leads from the AUX charge connector and the starter solenoid + cable post to pins 2, 11, 12, 13, 20 21 and 22.  Check each for continuity and intermittent low resistance to block/ground

Any recent codes stored in EMM?

Is your motor set up for AUX battery charging?

Turn on Engine data logging for system V., battery V., charge amps., System V., and Engine Temp Port and Starboard + EMM temperatures.  EMM temperature short duration rise could cause intermittent in EMM charge circuitry. Some older EMMs do not support extensive data logging.

Last resort =s EMM Recovery 
if that fails > EMM replacement
toobad4u

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #5 
Just a quick follow up for anyone else out there that might be experiencing a similar intermittent over charging episode.   Boat has sat since October of last year when Hurricane Michael destroyed our city.  Since then I had focused on getting the house back together so the boat took a back seat.  Couple weeks ago after a lot of investigating, and studying, I narrowed it down to the 5v circuit causing the EMM to act weird and increase voltage.  After that was narrowed down, I researched all the sensors that were on the 5v circuit and saw that water pressure sensor had been known to fail before and cause something similar to what I have been experiencing.  My pressure sensor had been working on and off on the last few trips last year before the boat was parked, but it never crossed my mind that it could be my problem.   I fired the boat up on the hose in the yard, and within 2-3 minutes the check engine alarm would sound, and the battery voltage would jump to 16+ volts and the alt current would go to 60v.  The motor would run rough and sometimes shut off.  I disconnected the Water pressure sensor harness and the motor started to run fine again.  Tried to plug the harness back into the sensor and the moor spit and sputtered and shut off and the voltage jumped up to previously mentioned levels.  I disconnected it again and the motor ran nice and smooth.  I did this numerous times, and every time it was plugged in the motor would shut off.  At this point I was pretty sure I found my issue, at least on the hose in the back yard.   Took he boat out to the island last weekend and it ran perfect all day long without any alarms or episodes of over charging.   

This might not be everyones answer to the issues I was facing, but might give someone else a starting point.  Wanted to close out this thread with an answer to my issue since a lot of the threads on the internet never get an ending or solution.

Stephen


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07'  E200DCXSUF    SER # 5196644

2003 Cape Horn 19'  Loaded down.

PhilH12

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Posts: 3,493
Reply with quote  #6 
THANKS for the follow up, Stephen!  Sounds like the Sensor but inquiring minds want to know - that was replaced and all good?  Nothing to do with the wiring in this case?

Happy boating!

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
toobad4u

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Posts: 9
Reply with quote  #7 
I already had a replacement sensor that I had purchased last year when the other one wasn’t reading anything. Motor ran fine with it plugged in, however I didn’t bother hooking the water hose up to the bottom of it to test water pressure since I was on the hose in the yard at idle. I have since removed the wiring extension and the pressure sensor that was on there and went to a stand alone nmea pressure sensor from Navico.
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07'  E200DCXSUF    SER # 5196644

2003 Cape Horn 19'  Loaded down.

PhilH12

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Posts: 3,493
Reply with quote  #8 
Aha!  Took the whole thing out of the picture then.  Sounds good to me!

Happy boating,

Phil

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Always check the Easy Stuff First!
20' Weeres fishing pontoon
90 HP E-Tec E90DPLSUM  05184332
Lake Tawakoni, TX - Catfish Capital of Texas
Nordmann

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Posts: 1,518
Reply with quote  #9 
Quote:

This might not be everyone's answer to the issues I was facing, but might give someone else a starting point.  Wanted to close out this thread with an answer to my issue since a lot of the threads on the internet never get an ending or solution.

Stephen


Thanks, I wish more people would do this.

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There is nothing the dentist can do, that the patient won't do!
rickmcd53

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Posts: 2,492
Reply with quote  #10 
Thanks, tips like this help us all learn.
Water pressure sensors should be mounted above the water tap port with the inlet Barb facing down and enough hose to have a u bend trap below the pressure tap. The sensor should work from compressed air in the tube and water should be able to drain away from the sensor when the engine is off/stored. Especially in salt water areas.
Water intrusion into the sensor can partially short the sensor reference voltage causing the EMM to boost voltage. A complete short can shut the whole sensor system down.
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