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tallman
I've had the no oil light and buzzer come on when out this weekend,2004 model 228hrs,with 1/2 to 3/4 full oil tank. Had been out on the water all day with out drama. I had just lifted the motor fully up to remove a crab pot rope from around the leg, put it back down, started then the no oil, buzzer and safe mode cut it. I limped back to the shore where i left the engine at full tilt over night while it was beached. I've heard about possible air bubbles but didn't see any in the lines, next morning I re started the key a few times and turned the battery on and off at the isolator but the fault only cleared after i left the motor verticle and off for 15min (bubbles surfaced or cleared, sensor reset?) re started and was fine for the rest of the day. Is there a better way of clearing this fault while on the water? Is this related to tilting the motor?


2004 50HP E50DPLSRC
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John_from_IL
Keep in mind that the "LOW OIL" warning refers to a low oil level (approximately 1/4 of tank capacity remaining), while "NO OIL" warning refers to oil pressure sensor not detecting oil pump operation.

It is possible that a small air bubble could have become trapped in the sensor when you tilted the engine up.

The best way to reset and establish the oil flow when on the water, is to run the auto-winterization sequence.

It might help if we knew what software revision is loaded into the engine's EMM. Is there any chance you have a recent engine report and you could post it here? There were software updates early on, and it might be that your 2004 E-TEC might be in need of a software update.

Just a thought, maybe Huey or SeaHorse might have other ideas...

Hope this helps,
-John

...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
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tallman
I had the engine serviced 6mths ago and i'm sure it said software upraded on the invioce. I did recieved a diag report but am having trouble locating it, but it's here somewhere.... I will find it.

I've downloaded the manual, auto-winterization sequence seems easy enough. should I do one now anyway to make sure? Can it be started and used as normal straigh after?

I use a petrol safe foam in my motocross bike that stops the fuel sloshing around in the tank but doesn't affect the capacity much. would something similar maybe prevent the air bubbles in the oil tank?

It was pretty windy and choppy conditions yesterday when mine palyed up, being shaken up and down while fully lifted with half an oil tank means at some stage the oil could have been in the top half of the tank and none in the bottom? or am I on the wrong track?
2004 50HP E50DPLSRC
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Spechaser
Winterizing should help clear it,.. if there was an air bubble. Check oil lines, while tilting motor. Maybe a kink was created which caused the bubble. Should not be a major issue if oil line is not in a bind. May be best to have a tech check it before you get stranded.

Steve
Capt.KAT-5
Spechaser 19'Custom Aluminum Center Console 2007 E-tec 150 Rebel 15 1/2 x 17 SST prop Mod# E150DPLSUF Ser# 05163481 Total wgt. 3250lbs,2 occupants, fuel,and gear.(aka the lead sled) Marshlands of South Louisiana,USA
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John_from_IL
Quote:
I've downloaded the manual, auto-winterization sequence seems easy enough. should I do one now anyway to make sure? Can it be started and used as normal straight after?
 

It wouldn't hurt to do this now, and it will familiarize you with the process. Yes, you can restart & use the engine immediately. Expect to see a puff of smoke when you throttle up for the first time. Once the excess oil burns off, it shouldn't smoke any longer.

Quote:
I use a petrol safe foam in my motocross bike that stops the fuel sloshing around in the tank but doesn't affect the capacity much. would something similar maybe prevent the air bubbles in the oil tank?


I would not recommend this. I suggest if you're going to be out in rough water, just make sure the oil tank is full before you leave.

-John
...just enough knowledge to be dangerous!
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tallman
Boat has been going fine Since but today, with a full tank of oil that buzzer kept going off, no oil and safe mode, 10Ks from the ramp. I did the winterization thing and pumped a heap of oil through. restarted but no good. Idled around the rest of the day in safe mode, stopped and started several times. Stopped on the way home 500m from the ramp for a swim, re started and all seems fine again??dealer booked in midweek to check in out again.
2004 50HP E50DPLSRC
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tallman
local shop now booked out for the next 3 weeks, easter holiday rush?? I've done winterization 3 times in a row just now on the flush bag and hasn't cleared the 'no oil' light and buzzer, it's pretty smokey so there is oil a plenty. anything else I can do while I wait for the dealer to check it out?

2004 model so I'm out of warranty.
2004 50HP E50DPLSRC
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francomicheletti
do check your rpm counter for accuracy.
Could be you are not entering safe at these rpm.
1200 is for engine cooling or oil related problems.1500/1800 is the faulty neutral switch.
2500 must be something else.
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tallman
hmmm. I didn't take much notice of exactly what RPM i was doing. the 'no oil' light comes on then the buzzer a few seconds later, revs drop down to a high idle speed. will check.

 can the 'no oil' light mean other things as well?
2004 50HP E50DPLSRC
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Christopher

Tallman,
I'm wonering if you ever got that issue resolved? My 40hp is going into the boat shop for the same exact issue. I'm wondering what its gonna cost as I know the whole oil pump/sensor/float contraption inside the oil tank is aprox $350. Let me know how it went if you dont mind. Thanks
40HP DPLSDA on a Tin 15ft Gregor Fishing Boat
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tallman

I got mine replaced after several false alarms at random times, the shop charged me around $700 aussie dollars in total parts and labour. software upgrade for the newer pump and a general once over of the boat and trailer, diag print out etc. wasn't impressed with 700 bucks but didn't really have a choice.... been out 3 times and since and it hasn't missed a beat, confidence is slowly returning

2004 50HP E50DPLSRC
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Huey
Hi, I do hope it was not just sucking air on the oil pump pick-up hose internally. We have had a couple of engines of this vintage, for both of you, that had this sort of thing and when we removed the pump to see why the hoses were loose allowing it to suck air and no oil. Refit and tighten the hose on the oil pump and good to go and costed alot less than replacing a pump. Not to say a pump can not fail but really we have only replaced a hand full on all I-2 and I-3 E-TECs that we have sold and service and that is alot of outboards.

Cheers,

Huey.
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tallman
would i have seen any air bubbles in the lines etc if it was air?
i mentioned this but the service guy was pretty convinced it wasnt an air problem but the sensor.
i have the old pump in a box and will check it over, not that i will ever use it but would be good to know.
2004 50HP E50DPLSRC
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Huey
Hi Mate, no not on the two that we have seen-we only investigated further, and found the loose hoses internally, due to wanting to find out "how things work". This was a few years ago now and see what your old pump looks like where the pick-up hoses go onto the body.

Cheers,

Huey.
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Christopher
I just got mine back from the shop 2 days ago and he could find nothing wrong with it. He said he ran it in a tank for an hour at different speeds and never got a "NO OIL ALARM". So that did not cost me a penny. The only thing is the guy did not have the official BPR computer and said his computer will only detect about 90% of problems.

So I took it out last night and ran for an hour and never got one alarm and it never smoked a bit and it ran perfect. Not sure if me tinkering with it last week had something to do with it.  Maybe I just got lucky and it fixed itself. Time will tell if issue comes back.

Prior to this I had at least 10 "NO OIL ALARMS" and 2 cuts to "SAFE MODE"  in three outings on the water.
40HP DPLSDA on a Tin 15ft Gregor Fishing Boat
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